While far from Topper Fine Jeweler’s first collaboration, the original Doxa x Topper Sub 300 “Great White” quickly came to define the strong suits of both the watch boutique and the celebrated Swiss brand. That original Great White was based on Doxa’s iconic Sub 300 model, but with some cheeky changes; namely, a luminous white dial, and the distinct lack of a date window. A year later, Doxa and Topper have teamed up again to produce a new version of the Great White, with the specs, and complications, shaken up.
The new Doxa x Topper Sub 250T GMT “Great White” brings back the previous model’s cushion case design, but with slightly smaller dimensions. Measuring in at 40mm by 42.9mm in diameter, the new Great White trades in a fraction of the water resistance (250 meters versus the 300 meters offered on the Sub 300), but swaps in a brand new GMT complication that both shakes up the visuals, and adds a new layer of practicality.
I had the opportunity to wear the new Great White for a few days, and my impressions of the overall design are largely the same as they were for its predecessor: the luminous white dial and Pantone 2955 C dark blue details create a look akin to porcelain pottery, while also calling to mind the iconic fish after which the watch is named. The beautiful beads-of-rice bracelet is back, and very easy to adjust, thanks to a micro-adjustment clasp and easy-to-remove links. It pairs wonderfully with the sleek cushion case and elevates the Great White to an “occasion watch”, though the weight of the piece is still a little too heavy for me to consider it a daily driver. The included blue rubber strap ensures that the real divers among us can use it for its intended function.
The new GMT functionality also adds a new design wrinkle, with a new day/night 24-hour outer ring surrounding the dial. To me, it adds a necessary layer of visual detail that helps pull the blue and white colorway together. All of this is powered by a Swiss mechanical movement that additionally offers a 50-hour power reserve.
The real gem of the design, however, is the engraved “treasure map” on the screw-down case back, designed by John Caplan and Wesley Smith of Standard H. The map shows the San Francisco Bay and highlights the Gulf of the Farallones, with the Topper podcast logo placed cleverly over the store’s location in Burlingame. It’s a delightful addition that introduces a note of whimsy to the watch, while maintaining its connection to the aquatic region that inspired it and its predecessor’s designs.
Additionally included with the Great White is a hat designed and produced by Standard H, which also features a view of the Farallones on the front patch. A portion of the proceeds from the watch will go to the Greater Farallones Association, supporting critical restoration work for the coastal habitats and marine life in the Greater Farallones National Marine Sanctuary, one of the most diverse marine habitats in the world.
The Doxa x Topper Sub 250T GMT “Great White” is a thoughtful successor to the original model, and adds more functionality and visual pizzazz to an already beautifully-designed base. Preorders open today via the Topper website. The retail price is $2,990, and it’s a limited run of 100 pieces. Doxa
Elodie Townsend
2025-12-05 17:00:00