The hype started immediately. Just a little over a week ago, Audemars Piguet and Swatch began teasing the unthinkable: a collaboration. Well, not just a collab, it quickly became clear that this would be another bioceramic recreation, of sorts, of an iconic watch. Named “Royal Pop,” thus evoking the most Veblen of watches, the Royal Oak. Without even showing what the final product would be, collectors, enthusiasts, speculators, hype chasers, pop culture analysts, your awkward relative that texts you everything watch-related they stumble upon, knew this would be big. Not just big in terms of the watch industry, but big in terms of product launches on a global level. Think iPhone, but dumber.
When Swatch launched the MoonSwatch back in 2022, there were similar initial reactions. Contempt, excitement, speculation. On the day of launch, I met up with Worn & Wound co-founder Blake Malin to head to a store to maybe pick one up. While on the train, we heard about the lines and decided to bail. Thanks to sites like StockX and eBay, the value of these watches skyrocketed before launch, drawing in a crowd of opportunistic resellers. No shade towards them, a living is a living, but the tone of the launch shifted. It wasn’t for us anymore. Eventually, social media outlets reported that some of the lines were getting rowdy. Not a good look.
Despite the inane “boutique” launch model, eventually we got the watches, and, for a time, they were fun. Back to 2026 – despite knowing that the MoonSwatch launch teetered on the brink of chaos, AP and Swatch decided to do it again. With days leading up to the launch, reports were already coming in of people camping out on the street to be first in line. Not hours, days. Hype kept building; the product was announced a few days ahead of schedule, supposedly by accident.
While it wasn’t what people expected, or wanted, per say, it was covered by every kind of media outlet, from influencer to global media, watch-focused to pure pop culture. “The next Labubu” was touted. The hype intensified, and the lines grew. Finally, May 16th came around and… disaster. The lines came dangerously close to turning into riots. Videos came in from Times Square, Mumbai, Milan, and elsewhere of the proverbial shit hitting the fan. The boutiques canceled the launch due to the danger. Those who waited in line for days were totally snubbed. It was, from the outside, a total fiasco. And one that could have and should have been avoided.
Who knows how many people were waiting in line globally and how many watches were actually available, but it seems highly likely that demand outweighed supply, and this was always going to end poorly (it was said only 30 were sold in Atlanta). And, obviously, it wasn’t necessary. There are many ways this could have launched online, and maybe even in person, just stopping lines at a reasonable point. Lottos, raffles, etc… But would those have generated news on a global scale? No.
Sure, it’s cynical, but it put the names Audemars Piguet and Swatch into every smartphone-holding hand, even those with no interest in the topic. This was no longer news about a product, but human nature. There’s an oddly prescient scene in the 1971 version of Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory that shows the same phenomenon, ending with the foreboding line, “…how long the spirit of man will hold up under the strain.”
Zach Weiss
2026-05-19 19:00:00