Some might say the Navitimer is the “most Breitling” watch out there. I tend to disagree. If you ask me, the Breitling that says “Breitling” the loudest and clearest is the Chronomat. The redesigned Breitling Chronomat keeps its connection to the model developed in the early 1980s in collaboration with the Italian Air Force’s Frecce Tricolori aerobatic team. While the Chronomat has undergone several redesigns over the decades, the latest update focuses on refining proportions, integrating the bracelet more closely into the case, and simplifying several external details. The outcome of the design update is that the Chronomat keeps its identity and therefore remains the Breitling of Breitlings. See for yourself. Here are the new Chronomat B01 42 chronograph and the Automatic B31 40 and Automatic 36 time-only models.
The Chronomat is the backbone of Breitling. The all-purpose sports watch combines chronograph functionality with robust everyday usability. The updated collection continues to center around two main executions — the Chronomat B01 42 chronograph and the smaller Chronomat Automatic B31 40 time-and-date model. Both retain the design characteristics that have defined the Chronomat since the 1980s, particularly the rider-tab bezel and the flexible Rouleaux bracelet.
Introducing the redesigned Breitling Chronomat models
The Chronomat that inspired the current collection was developed during the Dark Ages of Swiss mechanical watchmaking, the Quartz Crisis. Breitling swam against the stream and released a mechanical chronograph in 1984 when quartz was giving mechanically powered watches a run for their money. The Chronomat combined the durability and functionality expected from aviation and sports watches. The model later became strongly associated with 1990s watch culture, appearing regularly in television, sports, and celebrity circles across Europe, the United States, and Japan. Breitling’s 2020 redesign revisited the aesthetics of the 1980s Chronomat, reintroducing the Rouleaux bracelet and adjusting the case profile. The 2026 update builds on that foundation.
One of the most visible changes is the stronger integration between the case and bracelet. Previous Chronomat generations used a semi-integrated design, while the new models move toward a much more integrated look. Breitling has sought to preserve strap versatility by concealing the lugs within the case, enabling the watch to continue accommodating alternative strap options despite the more unified silhouette. Also, the steel and two-tone Rouleaux bracelets now include a micro-adjustment system built into the concealed folding clasp.
A simpler bezel
The revised case architecture also affects the bezel. On the Chronomat B01 42, Breitling has simplified the bezel construction by reducing the number of external components and integrating the bezel ring, rider tabs, insert, and screws into a single structure. Visually, the result is cleaner than previous versions while still retaining the characteristic raised tabs at the 15-minute positions. In case you start to worry, please don’t. All new Chronomats still have a relatively bold presence, as they have since the 1980s.
The theme here is evolution rather than revolution. This updated collection avoids dramatic stylistic experimentation. The rider tabs, Rouleaux bracelet, polished and brushed surfaces, and multi-link bracelet construction remain central to the watch’s identity. Breitling’s revisions focus on streamlining proportions and improving wearability. The more integrated bracelet, thinner cases, and simplified bezel suggest an effort to modernize the Chronomat without significantly altering its established appearance.
An introverted rainbow of dials
The dials across the collection are available in a restrained set of colors, including white, green, blue, anthracite, ice blue, and brown. Depending on the version, the watches are offered in stainless steel, two-tone (steel and gold), or full-gold configurations. The ice-blue variants continue to use platinum bezels, in line with a recent tradition.
Bracelet and strap options vary depending on the material configuration. You can choose between steel, two-tone, and gold Rouleaux bracelets. Alternative straps are also available in case a bracelet is too “heavy.” But know this: the bracelets feature a micro-adjustment system. It’s integrated into the butterfly clasp, and if you experience wrist expansion from heat or travel, this could be a feature to consider for one of three bracelet options.
The flagship Chronomat
The Chronomat B01 42 is the flagship — at least until Breitling presents a redesigned Chronomat B01 44. As the name suggests, the chronograph has a 42mm case diameter. Breitling states, however, that this new case has a 45.8mm length. The previous generation had a 50.5mm lug-to-lug, making this a huge change if the new number is indeed measured from tip to tip. The watch has gotten thinner as well. It went from 15.1mm to 13.77mm thick. Again, don’t worry; the Chronomat will still be a substantial wrist companion. Still, the reduction, combined with the more integrated bracelet, should make the watch easier to wear daily.
Chronomat B01 42 B0158101A1S1
Chronomat B01 42 AB0158101A1A1
Chronomat B01 42 AB0158101C1A1
Chronomat B01 42 AB0158101C1S1
Chronomat B01 42 AB0158101L1A1
Chronomat B01 42 AB0158101L1S1
Compared to the previous generation, the new Chronomat chronograph dropped the 1/100 scale from the rehaut. You be the judge of whether the cleaner dial layout is what you want in a Chronomat and whether the overall legibility has improved. Also new are the downsized crown guards. Not only do they subtly change the case profile, but they should also improve winding and setting the watch.
Chronomat B01 42 PB0158101C1A1
Chronomat B01 42 PB0158101C1S1
Chronomat B01 42 RB0158101Q1R1
Chronomat B01 42 RB0158101Q1S1
Chronomat B01 42 UB0158101B1S1
Chronomat B01 42 UB0158101B1U1
There’s nothing new on the inside, where the Breitling 01 beats. It’s the COSC-chronometer-certified automatic chronograph caliber that has become the brand’s standard in-house chronograph movement over the last several years. It offers approximately 70 hours of power reserve and displays the chronograph functions on a triple-register dial.
From left to right: Chronomat B01 42, Chronomat Automatic B31 40, and Chronomat Automatic 36
The Chronomat Automatic B31 40 time and date
The Chronomat Automatic B31 40 is the new three-hander with a date indication at 6 o’ clock. The watch is powered by the proprietary (AMT-manufactured) Breitling 31, a COSC-certified movement with approximately 78 hours of power reserve.
Chronomat B31 Automatic 40 AB3114101A1A1
Chronomat B31 Automatic 40 AB3114101C1A1
Chronomat B31 Automatic 40 AB3114101L1A1
Chronomat B31 Automatic 40 PB3114101C1A1
The watch has a 40mm diameter, 43.7mm length, and 10.99mm thickness. It’s the first Chronomat three-hand time-and-date execution in a 40mm case size — there’s also the “old” 40mm GMT version. The look is every inch a Chronomat despite the slimmed-down proportions.
Chronomat Automatic 36 A10320101C1A1
Closing thoughts on the redesigned Breitling Chronomat
Less is more. The updated, more balanced proportions and revised details help the Chronomat keep in touch with current demands. Existing Chronomat owners will notice the refinements and could likely want to evolve with their watch. Potential new buyers will see the Breitling of Breitlings with a signature bezel and style. The Chronomat B01 42 is a redesign done well, and the new Chronomat Automatic B31 40 is a nicely executed new version, looking attractive for those who find a 42mm watch just too big on the wrist but desire the specific Chronomat look.
For the record, the Automatic 36 also got an update. The refined watch uses the COSC-certified Breitling caliber 10, a Sellita-based automatic movement with a 42-hour power reserve. The 9.68mm-thin case also shows a 0.42mm reduction in thickness compared to the previous generation.
Chronomat Automatic 36 U10320101A1U1
Now, the prices range from €5,500 / US$6,400 / £4,750 to €50,500 / US$59,000 / £44,000.
What are your thoughts? Is the new Chronomat still a real Chronomat, and did it make you change your mind on the most Breitling of Breitling watches? Let me know in the comments section.
Lex Stolk
2026-05-19 12:00:00