The Kiwame Tokyo Mune — Raising The Roof

Kiwame Tokyo launched two new models, and I got a chance to go hands-on with them. Meet the Kiwame Tokyo Mune in two colorways. These watches subtly nod to Japanese roof architecture. As I tend to be skeptical about thematic watches, my first thought was, “Do these hold up if you strip away the backstory?” Let’s see how we got along.

The Kiwame Mune comes in black (Kurotsuki) and eggshell (Usuki). Both cost US$690 and, while recently available for pre-order, have just sold out. Deliveries will commence at the end of this month, in order of purchase. Despite these watches no longer being available, it’s still worth reviewing them to see what sets the Mune apart from similarly priced competitors.

Starting with the basics: Kiwame Tokyo Mune specs

The Kiwame Tokyo Mune is a stainless steel watch with a 38mm diameter and a 46mm lug-to-lug. Kiwame combines a svelte 9.5mm thickness with an ample 100m water resistance rating. The lugs take a 20mm strap, and the included leather one features quick-release spring bars. Paired with the Mune’s versatile design, this should make for strap-swapping galore. You will find a sapphire crystal up top, a steel screw-in case back on the opposite side, and a push-pull crown in its expected position at 3 o’clock.

Inside ticks the trusty Miyota caliber 9039. Kiwame states it is regulated but does not specify the level of accuracy. This common 24-jewel automatic 26 × 3.9mm caliber runs at 28,800 vibrations per hour. It offers a power reserve of 42 hours.

The Mune was available with a black dial, named Kurotsuki, or an eggshell alternative, named Usuki. Both feature applied Breguet-style numerals. They are executed in brushed steel on the black dial and black lacquer on the eggshell. These numerals sit quite high, creating a lovely sense of depth. The dial also has tracks for the minutes and seconds around the perimeter. Oddly, the latter track is divided into five sections per second, while the caliber has a 4Hz frequency, meaning four forward jumps per second. A classic baton handset with a pointed minute hand completes an appealing package.

Kaminarimon — Image: Go Tokyo

The roof-architecture theme

Okay, on to the Kiwame Tokyo Mune’s theme. As Kiwame puts it, this watch “brings together the functional beauty of a field watch with the architectural aesthetics of traditional Japanese design.” You can debate the field-watch aspect, as this isn’t typically associated with Breguet numerals, but I get the gist. The overall shape certainly has tool/sports vibes.

Mune (棟) refers to the ridge of a roof in Japanese architecture. In fact, this is represented in the 12 o’clock marker as an abstracted traditional Japanese rooftop. The theme continues on the seconds hand, where the lume pip takes the shape of the great roof of Kaminarimon (the Thunder Gate) in Asakusa, Tokyo. Completing the theme, the hour and minute hands are faceted with a central ridge, also referencing the ridge of a roof.

The theme is applied so subtly that you really don’t notice it unless you read the backstory. The marker at 12 could easily pass as a stylized arrow. The seconds hand is the same as on other Kiwame watches, and we see faceted hour and minute hands everywhere. You could argue that the Mune doesn’t push its source of inspiration hard enough. Then again, I wouldn’t be overly interested in a roof-themed watch if it were more overt than this.

The Kiwame Tokyo Mune punches way above its weight

Crucially, the Kwame Tokyo Mune doesn’t need a fancy theme to justify its existence. Inspecting the watch up close, handling it, and wearing it, I can only state that it punches way above its weight. It features a beautifully balanced, considered design, clearly a labor of love from true enthusiasts. It subtly echoes various vintage design cues without becoming derivative. There is vintage charm, but it appears thoroughly modern at the same time. It really is a beautiful little object.

The fit and finish are perhaps even more impressive. Everything appears crisp and clear. Granted, you will not confuse the case finishing with anything truly high-end, but it is very effective nonetheless, suggesting the watch costs significantly more than US$690. The dials, particularly, easily hold their own against much more expensive offerings. The one missed opportunity is typography, which could have been more interesting. However, little details like the blue lozenge markers in the Usuki’s minute track, matching the blued seconds hand, truly elevate the watch.

On the wrist, the modest proportions emphasize the Mune’s sense of refinement. Again, it references vintage watches while maintaining a modern, assertive stance. I find the Mune supremely versatile. Marketed as a field watch, it could just as easily pass on formal occasions. It has that do-it-all vibe. I could wear this on a khaki fabric one-piece strap as easily as on a glossy lizard strap.

Closing thoughts on the Kiwame Tokyo Mune

Circling back to my initial question, yes, the Kiwame Tokyo Mune holds its own without the roof-architecture theme quite easily. Perhaps it is a shortcoming on my end that contrived backstories bother me. It somehow detracts from my enjoyment of a watch. In this case, however, I can very easily look past it.

Simply put, I absolutely love the Kiwame Tokyo Mune. It suits my style to a tee, and I could easily see myself wearing one daily. If it weren’t sold out, it would also be an incredibly easy recommendation for anyone looking for a great everyday watch on the affordable end of the spectrum. Especially once you consider what big, established brands offer for comparable sums, this feels outstanding. Kiwame made only 150 per colorway, making this a collectible choice at an extremely competitive price.

Kiwame Tokyo shows why microbrands are to be taken seriously. The Mune looks and feels like an enthusiast’s product, a well-considered watch made with love and attention. It manages to do so at a price that usually gets you mostly soulless, mass-produced timekeepers. The Kiwame Tokyo Mune, contrastingly, feels characteristic and soulful. I want one! The only remaining questions are which color to choose, if I’ll be able to find one secondhand, and whether Kiwame will ever make more…

What do you think of the new Kiwame Tokyo Mune? Let us know in the comments section below!