It took a few years of being a watch enthusiast before I came across my first double-signed watch dial. I remember it was a Universal Geneve White Shadow with the word “Türler” written near the six o’clock position. Having never seen one before, I typed in a quick Google search to see what this had meant and, hours of research later, I came out a new watch collector––one with an eye and appreciation for double-signed watches. Up there with the likes of Cartier, Türler, Tiffany and Co., Mesiter, Trucchi, and other renowned jewelry retailers, Gübelin is a name any collector will frequently stumble upon when shopping for watches of this variety. When I came across this example of a solely Gübelin-branded timepiece, I knew I had to pick it up (especially for the >$100 price tag). This sent me down a rabbit hole of research similar to what the double-signed watches did. I wanted to understand the Gübelin brand and what it did for the world of horology, and I find it only necessary to share what I was able to find with all of you.
Brief History of Gübelin
Taking roots in 1854, Gübelin started in Lucerne as an independently run watch shop specializing in repairs and sales. The owner and lead watchmaker, Mauritz Breitschmid, would later agree to a partnership deal with young apprentice (and later son-in-law) Eduard Jakob Gübelin, sparking what would become decades of successful international business. As time went on, Gübelin became a powerhouse of the jewelry market, quickly gaining the attention of high-end watch brands like Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Heuer. The brand went on to cosign some of the watch world’s most celebrated models, such as the Disco Volante, Calatrava, Nautilus, and Ellipse. It can be near impossible to find these Gübelin-cosigned timepieces for under the price of a vehicle on the market nowadays, but some of the brand’s own timepieces can be had for well under the price of a car monthly payment (even with a good credit score and low APR). If you’re at all interested in learning more about the brand, Gübelin’s website features a detailed layout of their rise to horological fame, accompanied by lots of well-preserved photos and advertisements.
Design and Specs of the Gübelin Ellipse
When I first found this watch and researched the brand, I was surprised that they were allowed to utilize the same formula that Patek did for their Ellipse models. Of course, craftsmanship standards and building materials differ drastically, but that’s a worthy price to pay to save several thousand dollars. The watch comes in at a very conservative 31mm across and 35mm lug-to-lug. Its minuscule 6mm thickness is an absolute dream to wear on the wrist; it certainly falls in the “making you forget you’re even wearing a watch” category. The 16mm lug width, 2mm smaller than its Patek counterpart, makes finding a strap to pair relatively difficult but not impossible.
I unfortunately have little information regarding when this piece was produced, but from what I’ve gathered, it seems to have hit the market in the mid 1970s. This assumption was gathered thanks to the watch’s movement: a Peseux 7001. For those unaware (like me before I acquired this piece), Peseux was an acclaimed movement manufacturer for decades before being acquired by ETA in 1985. The 7001 movement was originally designed and released by Peseux in 1971, later being produced under the ETA brand after the merger. The 7001 has continued production into the modern day, still being utilized by microbrands like Christopher Ward, Zelos, and Maen. With over 42 hours of power reserve and a beat rate of 21,600 bph, it’s a tried and true movement that has required very little tweaking over its 55 years of production. Its 2.5mm thickness also makes it an ideal movement for any slim-designed dress watch if the automatic gear train isn’t needed and a quartz movement doesn’t pack enough punch. For a more thorough look at the 7001 movement, Mark McArthur-Christie’s 2017 article can help paint a better picture than what I offered here.
An Attempt at a Buying Guide
Before I go further, for those of you who have read my other work, you’ll know that I acquired a majority of the timepieces I write about for very affordable prices. My documenting of this is never in an attempt to brag about my accomplishments, but rather to emphasize how being a member of this hobby doesn’t require a fat wallet or country club membership. Knowledge is far more valuable in this hobby than money. With all this being said, I was lucky enough to pay only $25 for this watch when it was posted back in 2024. Included is a screenshot of the sold page on my eBay profile to show why I only paid that much. Sometimes, a simple misspelling like “Gobelin” can throw a listing completely off the algorithm. Always keep your eyes peeled for unique and rare pieces under just a simple “men’s watch” search. You never know what you’ll come across for the price of a chain restaurant meal.
The watch featured in this article is, to my knowledge, the only thoroughly-documented example on the internet. Very few Gübelin watches have received proper documentation over the years, so here’s hoping this article will spark some interest in other collectors (or even owners who haven’t realized how rare their watch may be). Juvenia made a watch similar in design to this Gübelin, but from what I’ve seen, they’re much smaller and feature lesser movements. Other models from Gübelin currently listed on eBay and other auction platforms can fetch quite a pretty penny, depending on the complications they feature and their overall condition. I highly recommend setting up a saved search to keep an eye out for Gübelin watches as they’re posted to see what additional unheard-of models pop up from time to time.
Conclusion
I always have such a strong fascination with watches that have slipped through the cracks of time, right past the eyes of collectors worldwide and the plethora of social media posts available at the touch of a screen. This Gübelin Ellipse represents both the unique story of the brand itself and the intricate relationship between jewelry retailers and the brands they sell with their moniker applied. It’s not an everyday wear, nor is it a watch that’ll be easier to pick up like many of the other timepieces I’ve written about. Nevertheless, it’s a piece that deserves recognition and a thorough examination because of its rarity and nonexistent documentation. Gübelin is a brand I’ll certainly be more attentive to since picking up this piece. Will you be doing the same?
Tommy Demauro
2026-05-01 20:00:00