People are always asking us, “Why are watch reviews always so positive?” It’s a fair question, and definitely a nicer way of saying what I think is actually underneath it, which is “Are you a shill?” While I certainly wouldn’t dream of speaking for any website other than this one, I can say that at Worn & Wound, we review watches that are of interest to us, that we’re likely pre-disposed to liking. Positive reviews come from our enthusiasm not just for a specific watch, but for watches in general. We want to see what’s best in the hobby, and seek to elevate brands and watches that we think are doing interesting work, and that our readers will find of interest. I’d argue that’s not the posture of the average anonymous Instagram commenter, who might be more inclined to tear something down than lift it up.
But sometimes a watch comes across our desk from a brand we like that just doesn’t work, or that seemed more interesting in renders sent via email or DM than in the metal. And that brings us to the Maen Grand Tonneau Ultra-Thin, a watch that on its surface seems like something that I should be really into, but leaves me a little cold when I hold it in hand and strap it on my wrist.
I’ll be upfront here and say at the outset that this is not a bad watch, objectively speaking. It’s not a failure in execution, or the product of shoddy workmanship. I think Maen probably wound up exactly where they wanted to be with the Grand Tonneau, and like other Maen watches I’ve handled, the fit and finish is great for the price. But it feels a little like they’re dipping too deep into a number of trends all at once with this one, and the product itself reads a little cynical to me, like its checking a series of boxes we’ve been made to understand will create something that enthusiasts won’t be able to resist: shaped case, an “ultra-thin” moniker, a fumé textured dial, and a loose collaboration with a bigtime watch YouTuber. If you asked ChatGPT to come up with a new watch that would be likely to sell based on every current market trend, it might spit something back at you like the Grand Tonneau Ultra-Thin.
What will make or break this watch for anyone who experiences it is the case shape. I like a shaped case and am constantly drawn to unusual, offbeat designs. The tonneau shape is actually not that unusual, it’s one of the most classically oriented watch case shapes, long associated with fine dress watches. I just don’t know why it has to be “grand” in this instance. It feels quite large to me, likely a result of the comparatively small dial opening, framed by a subtle polished ring, then brushed steel, and finally polished case bands that are brushed along the side. Like all Maen watches, the finishing is very nicely done, but the shapes just don’t appeal to me here. I don’t suffer from trypophobia, but the Grand Tonneau might be giving me the watch equivalent.
The case measures 34mm across and 45mm from lug to lug. It’s impressively thin, coming in at 6.4mm tall, but the case is slab-like and not very refined. It presents from the side as a non-descript, flat disc-like object. If there’s a watch from my own life that it reminds me of, it would be my old Zenith Port Royal, which has a similar cuff-like wearing experience, and, despite a dramatic and almost theatrical presentation from the dial side, revealed itself to be kind of dull from every other angle. That might not be of much importance to most, but I think as enthusiasts we often expect small details to stand out where we wouldn’t otherwise expect them. It shows a level of consideration in the design that sets the watches we love apart from mall brands, fashion watches, and the like.
I was able to sample the Grand Tonneau on a rubber strap, which is integrated to the case and quite comfortable. The visual impact of that integration is the best thing about the watch in my opinion, and if there’s one trend the Grand Tonneau is hopping on that I do appreciate it’s leaning into the anachronism of a dressy watch with a sporty strap. For my money, though, both Fears and echo/neutra are doing this a little better, and beat them to the punch with watches that are better proportioned and more original in their own way. The watch is also offered on an integrated steel bracelet, which I was not able to test.
Dial options include black (seen here), turquoise, yellow and “lava red,” all of which have a gradient effect and what Maen describes as a “double-layered construction.” I like a fumé dial but the effect here is very subtle – in normal lighting conditions it’s not nearly as pronounced as you see in our studio photography. I’m not sure if the intent was to create a vintage, patinated look, but that’s kind of what comes to mind for me, at least with this execution. Under a loupe, more detail comes out, and the dial takes on an almost organic appearance.
There are no markers of any kind on the dial, just the Maen wordmark at 12:00, “Swiss Made” at 6:00, and the Pride & Pinion logo just above that. This watch is a collaboration with YouTuber Nico Leonard, a sequel of sorts to last year’s jump hour limited edition, which was housed in the same Grand Tonneau case. I had honestly forgotten that this was a collaborative effort until seeing that logo, which looks so much like the Rolex coronet logo that it’s surprising Leonard hasn’t been sued by the notoriously litigious Crown. But perhaps he’s spoiling for a fight? That would be in character for Leonard, who often casts himself as a bit of a troll on YouTube and social media.
I know I said at the outset that the case shape is the make or break feature here, but realistically, it’s probably Nico Leonard’s involvement in the project that will serve as the initial filter. I’ve never met Leonard personally, but he has a reputation for being a somewhat divisive figure in the watch world, largely for taking provocative positions with a largely uncensored approach (he famously doesn’t have many nice things to say about Hublot). He’s viewed by some as a beacon of authenticity and, pardon the phrase, keeping it real in an environment that’s filled with influencers shilling literally anything in exchange for cash. He’s viewed by others as a bit of a blowhard, someone who courts controversy for views.
As someone who started in this industry by begging everyone who would listen to let me write for them for free, it’s hard for me to criticize Leonard or anyone else for doing what they need to do to make a living in the watch world. My impressions from seeing Nico’s content is that the personality he presents is pretty authentically himself, even if it’s a little abrasive. I respect anyone who is willing to just be themselves on the internet – it’s a judgmental place! But lending your name to something that is ultimately a hodge podge of on-trend design quirks makes me wonder about not just the collaborator’s taste, but also their motivation.
Even more central is the very idea of collaboration with a YouTuber. Videos on YouTube are ephemeral – they’re served to you by an algorithm, you watch them (or maybe skip quickly through them) and then they are gone, and you’re on to the next. A brand choosing to collaborate with a YouTube personality undermines the very idea of a watch being an object of permanence, a generational heirloom that defies the passing of time itself. When Maen, or Christopher Ward, or any other brand locks arms with a YouTuber (particularly when it’s for a limited edition that is ultimately a manifestation of up-to-the-minute trend-spotting) it almost always reads to me as a commercial play, as opposed to one based in creatively pushing an idea forward. A limited edition collaboration is at its best when it comes from a clear point of view, or meaningfully reinterprets an idea. That requires authorship and intent, not just an alignment with whatever happens to be trending at the moment.
Watches accumulate meaning over time. Every watch will outlive the trends, and certainly the media personalities, that inspired it. This watch feels like it’s been cobbled together in a way that reflects a very specific moment, defined by algorithms, a highly specific aesthetic, and a YouTuber’s seal of approval, which is its own currency in 2026, for better or worse. I just wonder what we’ll think of this watch, and many others from this era, once the moment passes.
The Grand Tonneau Ultra-Thin has a retail price of EUR 1,519 and is available via the Maen website beginning April 14.
Zach Kazan
2026-04-03 13:00:00