Collaborations are an established part of the modern watch cycle: a new model is introduced, colors follow, maybe a complication is added, and eventually a collaboration enters the mix, often positioned as a moment of creative divergence within an otherwise predictable trajectory. With the Citizen Tsuyosa seconde/seconde/, the brand hits that phase in a way that feels both familiar and slightly off-script.
Collaborations are also never entirely expected, yet the best ones have such a natural fit that they rarely come as a genuine surprise. While they can serve to keep a collection feeling fresh, there’s a sense that many collaborations struggle to reflect a true meeting of perspectives.
Instead, they can feel like extensions of ideas that brands are already circling, gently guided by an external voice to test whether something slightly unconventional might resonate. Too often, these ideas feel like early expressions that brands later refine and incorporate into their main collections. As such, limited editions can feel like testing grounds, and collectors, whether knowingly or not, become participants in that process.
That dynamic can feel slightly hollow, as what was once framed as exclusive can quickly become part of a broader rollout, which is what makes what seconde/seconde/ feels notably different. Because if there’s one figure consistently delivering something closer to a proprietary and fully authored take on collaboration, it’s Romaric André of seconde/seconde/. And one of his latest canvases is the Citizen Tsuyosa.
The Tsuyosa first landed at the peak of the integrated bracelet wave in 2022, and it quickly received widespread praise, largely for its balance of classic design and sensible pricing. For less than $500, Citizen gave us a 40 mm automatic watch with an integrated steel bracelet and a universally compelling design. That’s an appealing package to a lot of people at all stages of collecting, and since the range has expanded with new dial options, a new bracelet design, and a smaller 37mm size.
Over time, the range expanded with new dial colors, a sub-seconds option, and even a smaller 37mm variant, but the underlying appeal remained consistent. The Tsuyosa isn’t about pushing boundaries mechanically or aesthetically; it’s about delivering a rounded, accessible watch that could serve as a foundation for everyday wear. And it’s that precise sense of purpose that makes it such an effective base for André.
For this edition, seconde/seconde/ takes the 40mm reference, which clocks in at 11.8mm thick and 44.8mm lug-to-lug, and gives us a healthy dose of retro-themed entertainment. Even if you’ve never tried the Tsuyosa on before, the chances are you have tried something similar in proportions to its tonneau-like case.
With the three-link integrated bracelet that flows naturally, the design and overall canvas, if you will, sits within that versatile middle ground in both style and size. What you need to know here is that it’s incredibly wearable, and now with its totally reimagined dial, it’s even more so.
As with most seconde/seconde/ projects, this is not a case of superficial modification. The minute hand becomes the focal point, reimagined as a katana rendered in pixel art. This decision draws directly from the visual language of retro Japanese video games while also referencing the earliest phase of Romaric André’s work, where playful replacement watch hands were available for vintage watches.
Where this Tsuyosa takes it to the next level is how that hand actually engages with the dial’s design, as each index appears sliced, as though the passage of time itself has physically altered the dial. As the sharp end of the blade cuts every five minutes, it’s a symbol of the message this watch is trying to communicate. That concept extends beyond the dial, with the caseback carrying the message, “Being smaller has never stopped Minutes from slicing Hours into pieces,” while the bracelet clasp features subtle slashes that echo the same visual language.
This approach is consistent with a broader body of work that has seen seconde/seconde/ reinterpret a wide range of watches in ways that feel distinctly authored. His collaboration with Christopher Ward on the Twelve Snake, for instance, transformed a conventional integrated sports watch into a pixelated homage to early mobile gaming, complete with tongue-in-cheek details such as ‘Hiss Made’. Similarly, his work with Yema introduced graffiti-style interventions to a traditionally styled regatta timer. Across these projects, the common thread is not just humor, but a form of commentary, a way of engaging with watch design that questions conventions without dismissing them.
Now, mechanical complexity here isn’t really the name of the game, as it would dilute the clarity of the concept. This isn’t supposed to be a highly complicated watch, and for its $495 price point, I think you all expected to hear that, which is why the Caliber 8210 inside is perfectly acceptable. It offers automatic winding, a 42-hour power reserve, and a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour.
Sometimes we see watches like this lean too far into their funky, expressive idea, losing their why, but the beauty of a collaboration with seconde/seconde/ is that he doesn’t do this. There is just the right amount of nostalgia and creativity without straying too far into gimmick territory. This makes the release compelling on another level, as it represents something within the broader context of collaborations in watchmaking.
True collaboration is not about novelty alone, but about a sort of tension that emerges when two distinct perspectives intersect. Outside of watchmaking, some of the most compelling examples come from broader cultural partnerships. When Virgil Abloh worked with Nike, the outcome was not just a variation on an existing design, but a rethinking of how construction became part of the aesthetic.
When Louis Vuitton collaborated with Supreme, it marked a moment where two opposing forces found common ground. And when Kith partnered with Wilson, the collaboration wasn’t just a co-signed equipment drop, but a look at tennis heritage through a lifestyle lens, where court culture and streetwear language were merged into a single, unified design system.
In each of these cases, the outcome could not have existed without both parties contributing something essential, and that same principle applies here. The watch carries enough nostalgia to feel familiar, yet enough humor to remain engaging. And in a landscape where collaborations often feel predictable, that sense of intention is what ultimately sets it apart.
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Tim Vaux
2026-05-11 17:08:00