Picking highlights from this year’s Watches and Wonders is tough, as always. Once again, it’s more a matter of abundance rather than a lack thereof. But somehow, Watches and Wonders 2026 felt different compared to last year. It was more about consolidation than big technological innovations or grand anniversaries. Nevertheless, there was an avalanche of great releases that I managed to whittle down to my five favorites from the show.
Choosing my Watches and Wonders 2026 favorites was tough. There were simply too many awe-inspiring watches that deserve praise. For me, four brands stood out with an impressive lineup of novelties. As a result, it was hard to pick a favorite among these brands. The first is Vacheron Constantin, which showed its seductive powers in a post-anniversary year through three variations of previously released timepieces. Second, Jaeger-LeCoultre had another successful showing, unveiling super-complicated releases and a new series of integrated-bracelet sports watches. The third brand, Chopard, displayed a diversity that few others can match with its novelties. Finally, Cartier once again impressed me with some amazing versions of its classics. It seems like there is no end to the brilliance of its annual highlights. With that in mind, let’s jump into my favorites from the show.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin
We’ll open this list with a watch that I also picked for last weekend’s Sunday Morning Showdown. If you want a more in-depth explanation of why I love this new Overseas so much, I suggest you read that article. In short, I loved the surprise of a smaller, thinner Overseas, as the standard 41mm model feels bigger on my wrist than I would like.
It comes with that territory of integrated-bracelet sports watches, as you will know. That’s why this 39.5mm version hits the sweet spot in terms of size. But as mentioned, the thinner case that houses the newly developed 2.4mm-slim caliber 2550 makes the new Overseas even more comfortable to wear.
Shrinking and slimming down the case is only part of the brilliance. Though a big part, I also adore the beautiful salmon dial, a respectful nod to the salmon dials Vacheron Constantin produced in the mid-20th century. The lacquered finish is combined with a sunburst satin texture in the center that gives it great depth, and the contrasting peripheral minute track adds extra detail.
It further increases the impact of these releases. Add the fact that Vacheron Constantin chose platinum as the material for this new Overseas, and it becomes a watch that not only looks stunning but also feels nice and hefty. All this makes the new Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin the perfect heavyweight to open this list.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre Perpetual Calendar
While most of the watches on this list are new versions of existing models, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre Perpetual Calendar is a brand-new release. The Master Control Chronometre series was a surprise introduction on the first day of the fair, and it made quite an impact. The first of the three new models I laid my eyes on was the Master Control Chronometre Perpetual Calendar, and it was love at first sight.
This watch has something that I just adore. I am generally not a fan of perpetual calendar watches. The dials are often too busy and cluttered, and I am especially not a fan of moonphase indicators. But there’s something about this new Master Control Chronometre Perpetual Calendar that’s even more important than solving the practical puzzle of perfect readability.
The charm of this retro-infused yet very contemporary design is stunning. The watch features a slender 39mm case with a 9.2mm thickness and a beautifully designed bracelet that also wears super comfortably. It is combined with a striking dial. There are divisive numerals — although I do love how Jaeger-LeCoultre solved that challenge with the other two models — but a set of beautiful applied markers that accompanies the refinement of a double-scale layout on the dial’s periphery.
The first perpetual calendar design that I adore
The blue-gray sunray dial looks stylish, and the integration of the different sub-dials is perfect. As Ben rightly said, each sub‑dial enjoys ample breathing room, creating a well-balanced dial. Add the humble presence of the moonphase indicator in the overall design, and the dial is perfect for a perpetual calendar.
Turn the watch around, and you will get a good view of the JLC caliber 868 that makes this visual balance possible. The automatic movement is a COSC-certified chronometer and comes with the brand’s redefined High Precision Guarantee (HPG) seal. Additionally, it runs at 28,800 vibrations per hour and delivers a 70-hour power reserve. It is the perfect powertrain for the watch and the cherry on top of making this a perpetual calendar watch that I adore. It’s a first for me, and that’s why this is my second pick.
Zenith G.F.J. “Black Onyx”
Last year, Zenith introduced the inaugural G.F.J. as one of its 160th-anniversary models. It paid tribute to the brand’s founder, Georges Favre-Jacot, and reintroduced the legendary caliber 135 housed in a completely new watch with a beautifully sculpted case and a spectacular three-part lapis lazuli dial. If that weren’t impressive enough already, Zenith’s design team’s attention to detail made it even better. In particular, the recurring brick pattern on the dial and the buckle inspired by the brick facade of the brand’s manufacturing facility in Le Locle are good examples. Overall, I was impressed with the inaugural G.F.J., but it didn’t make my Top 5 list of favorites from last year’s show.
This year, Zenith made it a lot harder with two stunning follow-ups to the 2025 G.F.J. The first of the two is yellow gold with a bloodstone dial, which looks amazing. Especially on the bracelet, it is an absolute doozy, which is why we featured it in last week’s Top 5 list of highlights of the fair.
But for my favorites, I picked the super-limited tantalum version with the black onyx dial. This stunning three-part dial features a black brick-pattern guilloché sector with 11 baguette-cut diamond indexes and 40 hand-applied white gold beads, a deep black onyx center, and a gray mother-of-pearl sub-dial. One glance at this composition was enough to win me over.
The modern remake of the Zenith caliber 135
Inside lies the modern version of the classic caliber 135, which tells the story of Zenith’s most awarded movement from the golden age of observatory chronometer competitions. This is the final piece that makes this G.F.J. one of my favorite dress watches of 2026. It’s funny how much gemstone hour markers have grown on me in the past few years. I used to think they were unnecessary fluff, but since I laid my eyes on the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II with ruby indexes, something clicked. Ever since, I have become a huge fan of gemstone hour markers — if done right, of course.
Zenith has done exactly that. The diamond indexes fit the overall design perfectly without overdoing the bling. On top of that, they match the heavy tantalum case of this 20-piece limited edition perfectly. It’s a metal that has a brilliant sheen, and the polished parts look stunning.
Overall, my love for this new Zenith is far more than just the sum of its parts. As some of you will know, I love the brand for its history, great designs, and willingness to try things other brands don’t. The G.F.J. in tantalum and black onyx is more proof of that, making it an absolute highlight of the year for me.
Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS “Mountain Glow”
Now, we’ll move on to what is, essentially, a new dial introduction. Whereas the previous entries were either new models or existing models presenting new materials, dimensions, and colors, the new Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS “Mountain Glow” simply introduces a new dial color.
But what a dial it is! Three years ago, Chopard introduced the first Alpine Eagle XPS model with a stunning salmon dial. While the dial definitely makes the watch stand out, there was far more to the XPS story. It presented a variation of the 41mm Alpine Eagle with a thinner 8.2mm profile, which, like the bracelet, was produced from the brand’s Lucent Steel, made from 85% recycled materials.
Additionally, it housed the brand’s 176-part automatic caliber L.U.C 96.40-L. The beautiful 4Hz micro-rotor movement is only 3.3mm thick and offers a healthy 65-hour power reserve thanks to its two-barrel construction. It’s also a COSC-certified chronometer and bears the prestigious Poinçon de Genève. As Lex explained in his review of the first Alpine Eagle 41 XPS, this quality seal speaks to the level of manual finishing as well as the movement’s quality and reliability. On top of that, the caliber offered Chopard the opportunity to come up with this simmer version of the Alpine Eagle.
The brilliant “Mountain Glow’ dial
Aside from the dial color, there are two immediate visual differences between the regular Alpine Eagle and the XPS. The first is that the XPS models eschew the date. Instead, they feature a small seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock. It’s a crucial visual detail for me in loving these two slimmer models. The Chopard designers have integrated the sub-dial perfectly, keeping the full applied markers at 5 and 7 o’clock. Additionally, there is still a luminous white gold index at 6 o’clock, completing a full set of 12.
The sub-dial also breaks up the swirling dial pattern, which is an artistic impression of the iris of an eagle’s eye. For the second iteration of the Alpine Eagle 41 XPS, Chopard chose a wonderful champagne-tone dial that has an airy overall feel. I love it as a follow-up to the salmon-dial version, as it shows that a simple dial color change can completely transform a watch’s look. That’s also why I would jump at the occasion to buy this new €29,500 variant as a wonderful partner to the first XPS model. Until that happens, it is a proud fourth entry on my list of favorites from Watches and Wonders 2026.
Cartier Privé Les Opus Tank Normale Platinum
For the last watch on this list, I had to think for a bit. Cartier treated us to some amazing new introductions. The first that immediately came to mind for this list was the yellow gold Cartier Santos-Dumont on a bracelet with the gilded black obsidian dial and yellow gold applied Roman numerals. I had the pleasure of writing the introduction article, and to say I was impressed is an understatement.
But when we received the press info on the new releases, one watch immediately stood out. Back in 2023, Cartier released the platinum Tank Normale on a bracelet, and as soon as I saw that, I knew that it was the perfect Cartier for me. The nearly all-brushed case and bracelet give the watch an understated presence, with the red ruby cabochon revealing its special status to those in the know.
Finding the different pieces of the puzzle
But it’s for more than that. The visual proportions of the case and bracelet are spot on. While the watch is fairly small for my wrist, with a modestly sized case measuring 32.6mm long and 25.7mm wide, it wears like a bracelet, and I adore that. It is similar to the visual effect of my first-generation Omega Constellation Manhattan, which never feels too small when I wear it. Additionally, the refined brushed brick-style bracelet is absolutely wonderful. It adds to the overall aesthetic tremendously and wears like a dream.
Which brings us to the biggest puzzle we had to solve upon seeing the press images. What was different compared to the 2023 version? As it turns out, the differences are small but striking once you locate them. First, the Roman numerals are a nice burgundy color on the new one, rather than black on the previous one. I love this change because the color matches the cabochon. On top of that, Cartier replaced the silver hands of the 2023 model with blue hands to improve readability. These changes create a slightly more colorful version of the platinum Tank Normale that I adore.
Inside the case, you will find the Le Temps Manufacture-produced caliber 070, which runs at 25,200 vibrations per hour and has a 38-hour power reserve. It is a fitting caliber for this personal Cartier favorite. But in all honesty, that is not what this fifth pick is about. It’s all about the one Cartier that I would pick from all the great classics that the brand has created over time. I thought I had seen my favorite three years ago, but seeing it return in 2026 got me so excited all over again that it has to be on this list as my fifth and final pick.
Closing thoughts on my Top 5 of favorites from Watches and Wonders 2026
As with every Watches and Wonders, there is always room for honorable mentions. I thought there was an abundance of wonderful new introductions that could have easily made the list. These include Vacheron’s pink gold Historiques 1921 American, JLC’s stunning Reverso Tribute Enamel Hokusai Waterfalls series, Parmigiani’s surprising Tonda PF Chronograph Mystérieux, and Audemars Piguet’s super creative Établisseurs Galets.
Lastly, the Patek Philippe 5227G-015 deserves a special mention, as I replaced it at the last minute with the Cartier Tank Normale. Honestly, I was going back and forth until the end. It shows that there were so many great releases at Watches and Wonders 2026 that it’s hard to stick to just five new favorites. Overall, I thoroughly enjoyed the great number of wonderful releases, and I can’t wait to do a hands-on review of some of them, starting with my top five.
Jorg Weppelink
2026-04-30 05:00:00