What to Eat and Drink in Lisbon’s Most Popular Christmas Market

I don’t care that I’m 40 years old. Every day from now through Dec. 21 at 5 p.m., just as the sun goes down behind the hills of Lisbon, Portugal, I hear that Christmas parade calling from down the block, heralding a daily visit from Santa Claus, sparking a little thrill in my soul the same as it did when I was a kid. Under the twinkling lights and the roar of the crowd, he emerges to greet all the children, their parents, and big Christmas fans like me who’ve gathered, and to remind us all of the magic of the season.

Each year, Rossio Square, the historic heart of Lisbon, becomes a buzzy holiday spectacular. And it’s a party that vendors want to return to time and again. The fleeting glimpse of Pai Natal (Father Christmas) isn’t the only special thing about the Rossio Christmas Market.

“This is my third time,” Sofia Marques, who runs the Ho Happy One stall selling colorful jewelry made in Portugal, shares with Food & Wine. “It’s because it’s the center of Lisbon, so everyone comes here. Every tourist, even the Portuguese, comes to Rossio.” 

Marques notes that while the market is certainly stunning under all the twinkling lights, even a mid-day visit is worth it. “Here, you have the fountains,” she says, referring to the square’s two fountains, built in 1899, that often serve as a meeting point for locals and travelers. “It’s very beautiful.” 

Indeed, no matter what time you come, it’s always a party thanks to the free electric train that circles the market, the musical performances, and the various Christmas characters that accompany Santa. However, nothing gets the good times rolling quite like the drinks offered at the market, which include the usual hot chocolate and mulled wine. And here, you can also find something special: Ginjinha sangria. 

Long beloved by the Portuguese, ginjinha (also known as simply “ginja”) is a tart, sour cherry liquor typically served as a digestif. The recipe for making ginjinha is shrouded in secrecy, with each producer adding their own secrets, but all offer a sweet, cinnamon-forward flavor that makes it an ideal holiday drink. 

“I’m definitely going to take a few bottles back, there’s nothing like it,” Maria Pimentel, a bartender working at the Ginjinha d’Obidos hut, says. Here, guests can find red and white mulled wine, along with the Ginjinha sangria, which is sweet in all the right ways. Though Pimentel is from Brazil, she says that “ginja has my heart.” And when asked what sizes the kiosk offers for the drinks, she cheekily replies, “It depends on how much fun you want to have,” because this stuff is indeed very strong. Having fun and enjoying a little taste of merriment is what this celebration is all about. 

“We want each visitor to take away good memories of a Christmas lived and celebrated in the heart of our downtown area,” Manuel de Sousa Lopes, the president of Associação de Dinamização da Baixa Pombalina, which puts on the market, shared in a statement. “And with each edition of the Rossio Christmas Market, Associação de Dinamização da Baixa Pombalina seeks to reinvent itself and offer something new, keeping traditional commerce and culture at the center of this celebration.” 

This year, the market has expanded to double the number of stalls. While the 75 wooden houses are certainly easy to navigate, here are five vendors you can’t miss on a holiday visit.

Ginjinha d’Obidos

At Ginjinha d’Obidos, guests can find those yummy mulled wines and sangrias, along with tiny chocolate cups, which are the traditional way to consume a Ginjinha for those who prefer their drink straight up. 

Adore Cream

At the corner of the market, Adore Cream is a dream hut for anyone looking for a sweet treat. The kiosk offers traditional Portuguese holiday sweets including Sonhos (similar to a funnel cake in the U.S.) and plenty of pastel de natas. 

Ho happy One Jewelry 

Anyone looking for a shiny new gift for a loved one should stop by Marques’s stall to pick up a bauble. Find charms, gold, silver, and trendy beaded pieces that make fantastic stocking stuffers, too. 

Fumeiros Casa de Lamego

Want more traditional Portuguese foods? Head right to Fumeiros Casa de Lamego, a shop selling meats and sandwiches from Portugal. The menu includes the famed Tosta Mista, which is an ideal snack for an afternoon visit. 

Fátima Carlos 

Make one more stop at Fátima Carlos, a kiosk selling hand-painted Christmas tree ornaments that make for a perfect host gift or souvenir. The best part? It’s right next to Santa, so it’s easy to pop in to say hello after you’re done. 

How to visit the Rossio Christmas Market

The market is completely free to access from now through Dec. 21. The train operates free access, it will go through the streets of Baixa between Nov. 14 and Dec. 21, Sunday to Thursday from 3 p.m. to 10 p.m. and on Fridays and Saturdays from 3 p.m. to 11 p.m. The Rossio metro station is right next to the square and the famed Tram 28 line stops just outside as well. See a full list of vendors and a calendar of the musical acts at adbaixapombalina.pt.