Inside the ‘Secret Workshop’ Where Portugal’s Most Famous Pastry Is Made

The pastel de nata, a tiny tart about one inch in diameter, is the perfect representative of Portugal. It’s small but sturdy, reliable, and just the right amount of sweet. However, if you’re visiting Portugal, particularly Lisbon, for the very first time, there’s really only one place you should try it: Pastéis de Belém, which is technically in a class all its own. And we got a very rare behind-the-scenes peek at how this secretive pastry comes together. 

The story of Pastéis de Belém begins with the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos in Belém, a monastery that just so happened to be next to a sugar refinery and a general store. In 1820, following the liberal revolution, all the convents and monasteries in Portugal were forced to shut their doors, including Jerónimos. In an effort to survive, the monks offered the little treat for sale in the shop. They had an overabundance of eggs anyway, as the whites were brushed onto fabric and used as starch for ironing by the friars and nuns who called it home to keep their clothing (including those pointy cornettes) sharp. So, they put all those yolks to good use, along with some puff pastry, milk, butter, some lemon peel, sugar, flour, cinnamon, and a few top-secret ingredients.

In 1834, the monastery closed, but the recipe lived on, as they sold the recipe to the owners of that sugar refinery, who launched Fabrica de Pasteis de Belem. To this day, it uses the same original ingredients, which remain a well-guarded secret. Only a handful of chefs have ever seen the full recipe, with the bakery keeping the first step of the process behind a literal lock and key behind a door marked oficina do segredo, which translates to “secret workshop.” 

Once the initial ingredients are combined behind that door, the dough is brought out to the kitchen floor, and the rest of the baking process takes place. Dough is stretched into thin layers, skillfully cut to the same size by the master bakers, which are put in baking sheets and filled with the silky custard, then baked in the ovens for about 10 minutes before cooling and handing off to customers. 

While the pastry has always been popular, the demand is hitting a fever pitch with tourists and locals alike. As Penelope Clarinha, manager of the bakery, told Food & Wine, they churn out more than 22,000 a day at its original location alone. 

Of course, you can always pick up its close cousin, the pastel de nata, just about anywhere in Portugal, including in nearly every coffee shop, gas station, and even in the airport. There are also delicious variations, including flavored options, gluten-free, and even vegan tarts. And yes, they’re all almost as good. But you simply can’t beat a taste of the original. 

How to try the Pastéis de Belém

Visit the shop on your own: Head to Pastéis de Belém at Rua de Belém 84 92, 1300-085 Lisboa, Portugal, open every day from 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. Just be ready to wait in a long line if you go any later than 8 a.m. (and even then, you’ll likely have to wait a bit). Guests can choose to dine in and try their other pastries paired with coffee or head to the takeout window and get a box to go. 

Book a tour: There are plenty of guided tours available via sites like GetYourGuide, which will take you to the bakery and show you the production area, and will help you get to know the entire historic neighborhood in one go. 

Book a workshop: Want to really get hands-on? Book a workshop with World Experience, which offers a private walking tour followed by a Pastéis de Belém baking class so you can learn how to make them at home, too. (Note: Sorry, they won’t be telling you the secret ingredients, but you’ll get pretty darn close.)