When it comes to high end watches, we all have our little rabbit holes that we’re particularly and endlessly fascinated by. For me, H. Moser tourbillons have been points of obsession since the first time I encountered one. There’s something about Moser’s contemporary approach to design acting as a counterpoint to the classical way a tourbillon is typically executed that I find really appealing. One of my favorite experiences reviewing a watch remains my time with the Streamliner Tourbillon Vantablack, which is certainly the most insane thing I’ve ever been trusted with for a watch review, and for sentimental reasons as well as just being an incredibly impressive piece of horological art, it’s probably among my favorite watches of all time.
Today Moser launches a new tourbillon, in a new material, that has me thinking of that solid gold, Vantablack Streamliner once again. The Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramic is the brand’s first ever watch in ceramic, and returns to the “Concept” dial format, something that inspires many hot takes on Instagram, but is a style I’ve always loved.
The Streamliner is Moser’s sportiest watch, so it makes sense they’d debut an inherently sporty material on this platform. The 40mm case and bracelet are made entirely of ceramic in an anthracite gray color, and surfaces have been given a combination of satin finishing and polishing. Getting the finishing right on a high end ceramic watch is where the real “flex” is on a watch like this, as the material is very difficult to finish elaborately without a lot of hand work and skill. I have not had a chance to see this watch in person, so I’ll be curious to see how the bracelet in particular fares in ceramic, as this was always one of the most impressive aspects of the Streamliner when produced in steel or gold. In the images provided by Moser, it certainly appears that they’ve replicated the finishing style of the metal bracelets in ceramic, which would not be a small accomplishment by any means.
The dial is a grand feu enameled red fumé with a hammered texture. To achieve this effect, a textured pattern is engraved on a white gold base, and two enamel pigments are then painstakingly applied with a gradient effect before being fired multiple times to achieve the precise intended tone of red throughout. As a Concept dial, it is completely free of markings for the minutes and hours. This, to me, is a Moser hallmark, and it brings a smile to my face whenever I see a Concept dial.
The watch runs on the HMC 805 automatic tourbillon caliber, with the one minute flying tourbillon exposed via an aperture at the 6:00 position. The bridges and mainplate of the movement are finished in anthracite gray, matching the tone of the case and providing a contrast against the red gold winding rotor. The movement has a power reserve of three days when fully wound.
This watch has immediately become one of my most anticipated to see in person, which we’ll hopefully have a chance to do at Watches & Wonders soon, if not before. The use of ceramic opens up a lot of possibilities for Moser, and I wonder how the brand might incorporate cases of this material into other collections. The Pioneer seems like an obvious next step. It also seems likely we’ll see additional ceramic Streamliners at some point down the road, hopefully in more accessible packages (pricing is set at $112,100 for this watch).
More information on the H. Moser website here.
Zach Kazan
2026-02-18 18:00:00