I also question whether a third collection (or fourth, counting [RE]Master) needs to be a “collection” at all, at least in the way that the Royal Oak and Code are. The question probably misses the forest for the trees (or in this case, I’m belaboring something here and not getting to the watch… but it’s coming, I promise). If you look at Patek Philippe, they have a few—the Nautilus, Aquanaut, Calatrava, Cubitus, the often-forgotten Twenty~4, and others—but many of their most interesting and compelling complications appear in watches with no cohesive collection or design across the broader range.
No matter the name on the dial, good design is good design, catchy name or not, and rigidity can stifle creativity. Maybe that’s a path for AP moving forward. And yet, for now, a house with three pillars, now including the Neo Frame, is undoubtedly stronger than it was. It will just take a while to see how the collection fills out. But for now, we’ve got a watch to look at.
Mark Kauzlarich
2026-02-06 16:00:00