While not my style, I can see the appeal of a skeleton-style watch–it’s admittedly engrossing to watch the internals of your timepiece tick away, and an exhibition caseback can only show so much when it’s plastered to your wrist. So, I am not the target audience for watches like the new Maurice Lacroix Label Noir Aikon Manufacture Skeleton, but if you are, I’ll do my best to give you all the juicy details.
Founded in Zurich in 1975, Swiss watch brand Maurice Lacroix is known for stylistically brash and boundary-pushing watches; even their tamer models tend to feature bright colors or adventurous materials, and they have quite a few creative skeleton pieces in their catalogue, particularly in their Aikon line. The new Aikon Manufacture Skeleton, in collaboration with Geneva-based Label Noir, pushes that ethos ever-forward. Measuring in at a large-and-loud 45mm in diameter and 12mm in height, the black DLC-plated stainless steel case bears dual-segments at every other hour, framing the sapphire skeleton dial. A screw-down crown ensures 100 meters of water resistance, and two provided straps shake up the aesthetic profile of the watch: the gray leather strap gives it a much more subdued look, while the turquoise rubber alternative lends it a much louder persona.
Translucent black varnish on the sapphire dial gives the watch an almost smoky look at the edges, and creates a highlight point of clarity in the middle of the dial, where the turquoise-plated hands meet. A turquoise flange around the outer ring of the dial and matching small seconds chronograph at 6 o’clock serve as bright pops of emotive color amidst the moodiness of the dial and case. An exhibition caseback allows for an additional viewing angle of the manufacture automatic ML234 movement, which promises a 50-hour power reserve, and bears 34 jewels.
As the third collaboration model between the two Swiss companies, the Aikon Manufacture Skeleton is more of a continuation of an idea than a wholly new thing. However, the striking turquoise color, very meaningfully doled out in small concentrations on the dial, adds an element of playfulness to the design that could elevate it over its lineup brethren. Colorful watches are more popular than ever, with more consumers willing to step outside their personal style comfort zones to try something that may catch the eye of another watch enthusiast. Still, I think the black leather strap suits the design more, allowing the turquoise elements of the watch itself to stand on their own merit, rather than leaning on the immediately visible rubber strap option.
While it may still not be my cup of tea, there’s a lot to like—and show off—about the Maurice Lacroix Label Noir Aikon Manufacture Skeleton. If you want one, though, you need to act fast: the watch is limited to 100 pieces, with each retailing for $8,500. Maurice Lacroix
Elodie Townsend
2025-12-25 15:00:00