New Dials For The GMT

The Grand Seiko SBGM255 and SBGM257 bring two new dials to the classic Elegance Collection GMT. Both models preserve the 39.5mm stainless steel case and mechanical caliber 9S66 but introduce fresh dial designs inspired by the seasons.

These new references serve up a restrained evolution of a design that has been a Grand Seiko cornerstone since the original SBGM021 from 2010. The patterned dials, tempered GMT hands, and subtle design details reflect Grand Seiko’s approach to combining traditional craftsmanship with a modern, understated aesthetic.

The Grand Seiko SBGM257 and SBGM255 in context

The SBGM257 is part of the Elegance Collection, which emphasizes timeless design paired with practical complications. The GMT function has been a staple of the Elegance Collection for 15 years, originally showcased in the SBGM021, the predecessor to today’s SBGM221. With the SBGM257, Grand Seiko continues this tradition while introducing a dial pattern evocative of autumn moonlight.

Image: Watch Clicker

The SBGM257 sits alongside the SBGM255 “Snowdrop,” which uses a lighter dial inspired by melting snow. Both models maintain the original case proportions, beveled lugs, and box-shaped sapphire crystal. The new dials provide a dynamic visual experience as light interacts with geometric spiral patterns. I have yet to see them in real life, but I take Grand Seiko’s word for it.

Grand Seiko’s philosophy of subtle evolution rather than radical redesign is evident here. The SBGM255 and SBGM257 preserve the restrained elegance of previous GMT models while offering new, perfectly on-brand dials.

Grand Seiko SBGM257 “Moondrop” specifications

The SBGM257 uses a 39.5mm stainless steel case with a 46.9mm lug-to-lug and a 14.1mm profile, including the crystal. The lugs are slightly beveled, and the Zaratsu-polished surfaces provide reflections typical of Grand Seiko’s finish. A box-shaped sapphire crystal with an underside antireflective coating offers a view of the dial beneath. The watch comes on a crocodile leather strap secured by a folding clasp with a push-button release. Water resistance is rated at 3 bar.

Inside ticks the 9S66 automatic GMT caliber, operating at 28,800 vibrations per hour. It offers a 72-hour power reserve, dual-time functionality with a 24-hour hand, and an independently adjustable 12-hour hand for quick timezone changes. So, yes, this is a flyer (or “true”) GMT. Grand Seiko rates this movement’s mean daily rate (after testing in six positions over 12 days before final watch assembly) at +5/-3 seconds, but wearers can expect a normal-usage accuracy of +10/-1 seconds per day.

The dial features the patterned “Moondrop” motif in navy blue and a gold 24-hour scale on the inner ring to match the GMT hand. We also find diamond-cut and hand-polished hour markers and main hands, ensuring clarity and legibility. Grand Seiko reports that it has used autumn nights as inspiration for this dial, and I can see that. The retail price for this watch in Europe is €5,200.

Grand Seiko SBGM255 “Snowdrop”

The SBGM255 shares everything except its dial and accent colors with the SBGM257. This one is inspired by early spring snow melting under sunlight. The GMT hand is tempered blue and paired with a matching 24-hour scale, providing contrast against the white dial surface. Here, the dial motif subtly glistens in the light, evoking the look of melting snow. It is subtle, yes, but cool nonetheless. And even if you lack Grand Seiko’s poetic disposition, the dial is simply beautiful.

Initial impressions

These new Grand Seiko models are a perfect representation of the brand. They are the type that makes you look twice and think, “Did that not already exist?” I mean this in a positive sense, as these watches offer more choice within the confines of what we always loved about Grand Seiko. No, they don’t revolutionize the watch landscape, but GS has other watches for that.

I am quite fond of this case shape and design. You may know that I have the smaller, non-GMT brother (SBGW231) in my collection. I love Grand Seiko’s variation on the classical dress watch, with the slightly bulkier cases, black-polished hands and indexes, and the stern logo on the dial. Although I prefer the SBGW231 for its proportions, I could certainly live with these GMT models.

My favorite is probably the SBGM257, with its lovely dark blue dial. The inky hue contrasts beautifully with the Zaratsu-polished steel. And no, you don’t have to lock it away when autumn passes. This will look great in winter too!

What do you think of the Grand Seiko SBGM255 and SBGM257? Let us know in the comments section below!

Watch specifications