The Doxa Sub 200 II Collection

It’s that time of year when the new releases start to trickle out in preparation for the season’s watch shows. However, there’s something else on the horizon that still seems unfathomable in some geographies. Finally, Summer is coming. As a result, a brand like Doxa is always active and takes the opportunity to introduce novelties. This year, the company is focusing on its most affordable line, but has added something entirely new. The Sub 200 II collection offers new colors and a new case.

If you’re not familiar with Doxa’s entry-level model, it debuted in the mid-1960s before the iconic Sub 300. The original Sub 200 is rare, with very few, if any, coming up for sale in a given year. It featured a Swiss Huguenin Frères case with lyre-shaped lugs and styling similar to the Omega Seamaster 300 and Eberhard Scafograf divers. In 2019, Doxa brought back this design, and it’s been a pillar of the collection ever since. Now, for the first time, we’re getting an updated case and new dials. Make no mistake, the Sub 200 II isn’t a replacement for the existing models. Rather, it’s a new line that’s here to stay.

The Doxa Sub 200 II

While most brands are intent on making smaller watches, Doxa is doubling down on offering larger watches for what it must see as a recently neglected audience. Therefore, no matter which of the five variants is chosen, expect a 44mm by 48mm stainless steel case. However, as Doxa states in the press materials, expect the watches to wear smaller due to the compact lug design. Another aspect that should aid fit is the thickness, which drops from 14mm on existing models to 12.8 on the Sub 200 II.

For the five models, all feature fumé dials, a first for Doxa. All are paired with 316L stainless steel cases, except for one model. The red-dialed Redcoral has a black DLC case, crown, and bezel. Other models include a gray Sharkhunter Vintage, a black Sharkhunter, a blue Caribbean, and a green Sea Emerald. Aside from the coral options, all models have a dial-matching aluminum inlay dive bezel, screw-down crown, and a solid stainless steel screw-in case back. A box sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating completes the look.

Matching rubber straps or Milanese mesh

No matter which color option is chosen, the Sub 200 II is available with a 20mm wide Milanese mesh bracelet or a Tropic-style rubber strap. The former has an adjustable clasp, and the latter uses a stainless steel pin buckle. Naturally, all of the strap and bracelet hardware is black DLC-coated for the Redcoral edition. Both should make for comfortable fits and allow the wearer to take advantage of the models’ 200 meter depth rating.

A closer look at the dials

Like many fumé applications, the Sub 200 II dials darken toward the edges. The dials also have a sunray finish, which enhances the shading. Aged Super-LumiNova is found in all models except for the more modern-looking Redcoral. The signature applied indices and handset are identical to those found on the smaller Sub 200 models.

A Sellita inside

Inside each Sub 200 II, we find the familiar Sellita SW200-1 automatic. This is a popular and reliable dive watch caliber, so its use is not surprising. Performance-wise, the movement has a 38-hour power reserve and a frequency of 28,800 vph. Otherwise, a quick set date function and hacking are part of the package.

The Sub 200 II is available now

Doxa isn’t wasting any time with Sub 200 II, and, therefore, the models should be available on the brand’s website and at authorized dealers globally. From our point of view, we’re always happy to see additional models in Doxa’s catalog. Sure, this is larger, but there is certainly an active and rabid group of buyers who enjoy or require a more substantial watch. Plus, we also like how the thickness has been tempered somewhat. At €1,590 / $1,690 on rubber or €1,650 / $1,750 on a bracelet, the watches remain approachable. Share your thoughts on these below, and let us know what you think of the new dial designs.

Watch specifications