The Gerald Charles Masterlink Perpetual Calendar

Okay, that subtitle is half right. The Masterlink design, with its typical “smile” at 6 o’clock, is not new. But instead of trying to fit a traditional round QP movement into the case, Gerald Charles chose to build a shaped one. The Gerald Charles Masterlink Perpetual Calendar is so handsome that, apart from a closed-dial version, there’s also a sapphire-dial variant available that shows you the movement underneath. The openworked model allows you to see the caliber at work. And on the back, both watches show very original movement finishing, with a stylized map of the area around Geneva’s Rue du Montblanc, where the brand is located.

It might be confusing at times. Legendary watch designer Gérald Genta has left us with two brands — Gérald Genta and Gerald Charles. The master started the latter in 2000 and gave it his first two given names, and the Ziviani family took it over upon his passing in 2011. The Masterlink is a contemporary take on the Maestro, a 2006 Genta design. Octavio Garcia, the former artistic director of Audemars Piguet and current creative director of Gerald Charles, is no stranger to working with Genta designs. He gave the Masterlink a look that’s in line with the Maestro but is squarer than the 2006 design. The integrated bracelet works wonderfully well with the “smile,” which is also the perfect shape to cradle one of the calendar indicators in the brand’s most complicated watch yet.

Introducing two versions of the Gerald Charles Masterlink Perpetual Calendar

It looks like the Masterlink was made to house a shaped QP movement with an indication nestling comfortably inside the watch’s “smile.” Gerald Charles managed to create quite an impressive and, indeed, very fresh perpetual calendar. These two sculpted, high-tech, ultra-modern-looking titanium watches mark a significant step in the brand’s evolution. The QP movement, with its asymmetrical design, uses space very well. The oversized date display — arguably the most essential information for daily wear — is in the most prominent spot on the dial. All the other calendar indications are there too, but since you don’t check them as often, they don’t take center stage. The result is a very clear and easy-to-read perpetual calendar.

In great shape

Since one of the two new watches is openworked, we might as well start with the movement. Powering the Masterlink Perpetual Calendars is the new ultra-thin, automatic perpetual calendar caliber GCA11000. It is the result of a close collaboration with Vaucher. The basis is a Vaucher micro-rotor movement that was reworked into a shaped architecture and then outfitted with a proprietary module. It runs at 3 Hz and delivers a 50-hour power reserve.

Visible through the case back, the movement’s bridges evoke a street plan of Geneva. Straight Geneva stripes trace the city’s roads, while waves mirror the surface of Lake Geneva. This attention to detail extends even further, with the location of the Gérald Charles atelier on Rue du Mont-Blanc 3 marked by a black ruby. The caliber also shows a gold-plated micro-rotor with a distinctive hexagonal honeycomb motif.

In great shape: Part II

Gerald Charles chose not to impress with a heavy platinum timepiece or an execution in cliché gold. Instead, the brand chose Grade 5 titanium to introduce a watch that looks forward rather than backward. The 40mm case width is moderate, and the 10mm thickness is very elegant. Using titanium keeps the weight down. The Masterlink Perpetual Calendar, including the integrated bracelet, weighs just under 100 grams. Its weight, size, and shape make for a watch that lends itself to everyday wear. The introverted, closed-dial model does that a bit more easily than the outgoing version, which proudly flaunts its movement. But since the slim Masterlink Perpetual Calendar slips under a cuff easily, why not also enjoy the view?

The watch’s following lines come to life because the case and bracelet have polished and matte finishes. In particular, the proprietary sandblasted treatment on the bracelet stands out. It’s called Darkblast, and it gives the surface a soft, almost velvet-like texture. You also want to do your best not to scratch it because every little blemish will be very hard to ignore. Another good thing to know is that despite its complex, shaped construction and four correctors on the case side, the Masterlink Perpetual Calendar offers a very practical 100m water resistance rating.

ML11.0-TNBR-TNSB-BR00SR-TNDP

ML11.0-TNBR-TNSB-SP31PS-TNDP

The fumé-dial version, the reference ML11.0-TNBR-TNSB-BR00SR-TNDP, costs CHF 63,000. The openworked version, the reference ML11.0-TNBR-TNSB-SP31PS-TNDP, has a price of CHF 70,000.

Do the flowing lines and QP indication nestled inside the Gerald Charles Masterlink Perpetual Calendar’s “smile” make you smile? And what about the price point? Please let me know your thoughts in the comments section below.

Watch specifications