If you forced me to place a bet, perhaps on a platform like Kalshi, on what the latest release from Kurono Tokyo would be, there’s probably no way I’d put even a nickel of my own money on a dive watch. And if you told me that the dive watch in question would be of a unique modular design, I’d probably just be even more confused. That’s basically how I felt when I first saw the news of the new “Kurono Diver’s” watch from Kurono, which is basically two watches in one, and represents a hard left turn for a brand that we thought we had figured out.
I feel like I talk a lot about how nice it is to be surprised in this industry, and this is a great example of a watch that I don’t think anyone saw coming and gives us all a chance to contemplate something a little different. Before we get into the Diver’s though (the name of the watch is stylized somewhat confusingly with the possessive apostrophe ‘s’), it’s worth setting the proper context for Kurono Tokyo, because this watch upends a lot of the expectations collectors probably have for the brand. The first thing to understand is that Kurono is the brainchild of watchmaker Hajime Asaoka, widely recognized as one of the great independent watchmakers in the world. His Kurono line has become popular over the last few years as it gives enthusiasts who might not be inclined to pay well into the five figures for an Asaoka branded watch a chance to get a lot of his aesthetic in an affordable package. It’s a diffusion line, but it’s been done in a very smart way, with very clear design codes that are immediately recognizable.
Up to this point, that’s meant modestly sized dress watches with a modernized Art Deco look. That’s a broad generalization, but I think most would agree that even though the brand has released several excellent chronographs, Kurono has led with design over pure tool watch functionality, and they skew a little more formal. So a dive watch alone is a surprise, but what’s really kind of shocking is the way they’ve executed it.
The Diver’s is built around a 35mm stainless steel case with short lugs that could read as a dress watch circa the 1920s or 1930s. To make it a “Diver’s”, Kurono also includes an additional steel case that is designed to fit over the smaller case, increasing the diameter to 46mm and the case height to 13.5mm (the lug to lug comes in at 56.7mm). Modular constructions like this are not completely novel, but this one is a little different in that it seeks to solve a specific water ingress problem. You’ll notice that with the larger case fitted over the smaller one, the crown is no longer exposed. For Asaoka, this is a potential issue with all dive watches, so he sought to create a solution that takes the crown out of play when the watch is underwater. The Diver’s comes with a tool called the “Duoseal” that tightens the fit of the case via the bezel and ensures water resistance to 300 meters.
I’m not usually the biggest fan of the Choose Your Own Adventure approach to watches – I kind of feel like a strong design should be fairly narrow in focus, and it’s OK if a watch isn’t all things to all people. So the two for one aspect of this release is not all that interesting to me, but I’m fascinated by Asaoka’s thought process in coming up with an interesting solution to potential water ingress through a crown. He’s also done it in a way that does feel true to the Kurono Tokyo spirit. We still get some Art Deco inspired design flourishes (the hour hand, in particular, as well as the star-shaped markings at ten minute intervals on the bezel), and perhaps more importantly, the watch remains accessible. The retail price sits at $2,700, which feels like a good value for something this unique.
As with other Kurono Tokyo watches, it’s powered by a simple Miyota movement (the 90S5) with 40 hours of power reserve. The water resistance rating of the watch without the dive case attached is 50 meters, and Kurono claims 100 meters with the dive case but without the Duoseal tightening. This, to me, is the most curious thing about the Diver’s, and I’d love to have the chance to fiddle with the Duoseal tool a little bit to get a better tactile understanding of how it all works.
The watch is being made available through applications of interest submitted to Kurono Tokyo, which close tomorrow night. Kurono Tokyo has stated that priority will be given to certified divers in the application process. More information can be found on the Kurono Tokyo website here.
Zach Kazan
2026-03-10 13:00:00