I’m writing this just a few hours jetlagged from an IWC preview in Los Angeles, where I had the chance to see much of what the brand has in store for this year. Now while most of what I saw has to stay under embargo for now, one piece I can talk about is the new Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium, and it’s one I feel most watch enthusiasts didn’t see coming.
I should admit something up front: the Portugieser line has never been a true favorite of mine. I’ve always thought it was a little too dress-forward and formal. That’s not a criticism, just my own preference. I just typically gravitate toward pieces that feel sportier or more tool-like. Which is exactly why this release surprised me. This is the sportiest Portugieser we’ve seen yet, and it really shifts the tone of a collection that has previously leaned more elegant.
The Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium (Ref. IW371631) keeps the familiar 41mm proportions of the modern Chronograph but the case, crown, and pushers are now crafted in Ceratanium, IWC’s proprietary titanium-based material. If you’re not familiar with Ceratanium, IWC developed this material over five years and it is a patented, matte-black material made by firing a special titanium alloy in a kiln, resulting in a scratch-resistant, non-coated surface.
Ceratanium has historically felt most at home within IWC’s more tool-like utilitarian watches, particularly in the Pilot’s Watch line. We’re big fans of this material at Worn & Wound and you can take a look at a past video featuring a Ceratanium Top Gun Pilot’s Chronograph here.
The matt black case is paired with a black dial, black polished numerals, black hands, and a black rubber strap, for a fully monochromatic execution. This dark beauty is limited to 1,500 pieces and priced at $14,600. It features one of the boldest aesthetic departures within the Portugieser collection to date. Once you put the watch on your wrist, this shift in personality becomes very clear.
At 41mm in diameter and 13.1mm thick, I have to say the watch wears wonderfully and hugs the wrist nicely. It keeps the proportions that have made the Portugieser Chronograph so popular, but the Ceratanium case gives it a lighter technical presence. Weird to say but it didn’t really feel like a normal Portugieser when wearing. Unlike previous Ceratanium references in the Pilot collection, which I’ve always thought have leaned more rugged and masculine, this feels far more universal in my opinion, making it extremely wearable for both men and women. It doesn’t overpower the wrist as you can see on my 6.5inch wrist in these photos.
The rubber strap also plays a big role in that transformation. I found it incredibly soft, high quality, and cohesive with the case. More importantly, it helps push the watch into that sporty territory. The Portugieser has generally occupied a dressier space within IWC’s lineup. In Ceratanium on black rubber, this isn’t giving dress chronograph energy anymore. It feels sporty and youthful. That said, the all-black execution comes with a trade-off.
The black-on-black dial is very cool looking at a quick glance, but legibility does take a hit. The polished black Arabic numerals and indices, while beautifully applied, can be difficult to read in certain lighting conditions. There is no lume, and contrast is minimal. I feel it’s a bit too committed to that blackout aesthetic, so your eyes have to work a little harder. For potential buyers, that’s worth considering.
I also have to mention, and this is less important to many, but it’s an extremely difficult watch to photograph. The dark dial and finishings absorb and reflect light in a way that flattens easily on camera, which doesn’t quite capture the dimensional quality you see when you hit it with light at a certain angle. (If you want to see how it plays with light on the wrist, I’ve shared a wrist roll on Worn & Wound’s Instagram.)
Turning the watch over, you’ll find a smoked sapphire caseback that continues the monochromatic theme while offering a view of the IWC-manufactured 69355 chronograph calibre. I do quite like this feature and feel it levels up the aesthetics of the caseback compared to a traditional clear sapphire window. The movement features a column-wheel control and a 46-hour power reserve. This has been proven to be a reliable and robust movement and keeps the watch thin and highly wearable.
Ultimately, this is a Portugieser for someone who appreciates the collection’s heritage but wants something more modern and sport-driven. It may not be the most legible Portugieser ever made but it is arguably the most athletic and contemporary version of the design we’ve seen so far. And for someone who has never quite connected with the line before, that shift seems meaningful.
Seeing the Portugieser in Ceratanium was unexpected, and feels like a statement. It’s as if IWC is saying no watch is safe from a more tactical treatment. And honestly, I love the tension of a dress-leaning watch dressed down this way. If this is the direction, I’m ready to see what gets the blackout treatment next. IWC
Kat Shoulders
2026-02-27 14:00:00