H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramic

Ceramic watches have been around for ages. The high-tech material with remarkable qualities and an unmistakable appearance has a significant fan base, and plenty of brands recognize that. Not Moser. The brand from Schaffhausen, known for its unconventional ways, never ventured into the world of ceramic watches until now. But the retro-futuristic H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramic, with its textured red Grand Feu enamel dial and a flying tourbillon, was well worth the wait. It’s probably also the first of more ceramic Streamliners to come.

The fluidity of the Streamliner lends itself perfectly to ceramic expression. That’s why it’s a bit of a mystery that the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramic is just appearing now, not years earlier. Instead of crying over spilled milk, let’s just examine the watch, which, to me, resembles a volcano in more than one way: the case and bracelet look like congealed lava, and the dial takes after melted lava.

The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramic

The big news is that H. Moser & Cie. (finally) created a ceramic watch. And although the presence of this non-alloy is notable, the ceramic serves as a canvas and doesn’t necessarily take center stage. The Concept philosophy of the brand from Schaffhausen means that the brand logo and indexes are absent from the dial, yet its minimalist approach has a maximal visual impact, especially with the dial executed in blistering-hot red with a smoky look. The Grand Feu enamel dial features a textured pattern as well. It’s engraved on a white gold base to create a hammered effect. The enameling process involves two enamel pigments, washed, ground, and applied in a gradient to create a vibrant color generated by successive firings.

Two hairsprings inside one flying tourbillon

The dial may be devoid of indexes and logos, keeping it in line with the brand’s minimalist philosophy. The one-minute flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock is anything but a minimalist feature, though. This gravity-defying mechanism is part of the HMC 805 automatic caliber. It features dual hairsprings designed and produced in-house by H. Moser & Cie.’s sister company, Precision Engineering AG. According to Moser, a pair of matching hairsprings improves accuracy and isochronism, compensating for shifts in the center of gravity as the springs expand.

Caliber HMC 805 also features partially skeletonized bridges and a mainplate in anthracite gray. The openworked 18K red gold rotor offers a subtle, luxurious contrast. But this movement is not only about appearances. The automatic 3Hz caliber, with a 32mm diameter and 5.5mm thickness, features a bidirectional pawl winding system, helping to keep the minimum three-day power reserve topped up.

Now we talk ceramics

The 40 × 12.8mm (11mm without the sapphire crystal) Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramic stands out stealthily thanks to its curvaceous form. Its cushion-shaped case and wavy bracelet in anthracite-gray ceramic underline the Streamliner’s organic lines. To enliven the ceramic material, Moser adorned the bracelet with a vertical satin finish and subtle polishing on the edges. The case, on the other hand, shows a contrasting circular satin finish. These finishes are applied by hand, resulting in a watch that comes alive. Ceramic watches offer many advantages, such as low weight, colorfastness, hypoallergenic properties, and excellent scratch resistance. But they can also look a bit dull if all matte or even plasticky if fully polished. The mix of finishes on the ceramic Moser watch creates a dynamic appearance, revealing the material’s depth, density, and color — an intense, absorbing anthracite gray.

Something all ceramic watches have in common is comfort. Ceramic watches are pleasant to the touch and have a certain warmth. If you want to experience this sensation with the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramic, you can visit an official dealer. If the experience was pleasant enough and you decide you want to own the first ceramic Moser, it will cost you CHF 96,200. That price makes the Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramic a very exclusive watch. But maybe in due time, Moser will also release a ceramic version of less complicated watches, like the Streamliner Centre Seconds. You will get the same ceramic sensation, sans tourbillon, that’s true, but for a price that might be within reach. What do you think about this first ceramic Moser watch, and is this material ideal for the Streamliner? Let me know in the comments section.

Watch specifications