A Hands-On Comparison of the Omega Speedmaster Black and White, White Dial, and Classic Moonwatch

The dilemma, if you can call it that, is that should you be in the market today for a new, steel Speedmaster Professional, you’d have your choice of not one, but three rather appealing, in-stock choices (and then there are like the 500 other versions too). There’s the iconic Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional. The evergreen. The “true” Speedy. Updated to an impressive modern spec with a co-axial, master chronometer-certified 3861 caliber in 2021, it mixes provenance with vintage charm and modern build. Then, there’s the White Dial model (this needs a nickname), which debuted in 2024. Crisp, white, and unexpected, it’s the logical counterpart to the Moonwatch and brings a modern edge to the mid-century design. And now, finally, there’s the “Black and White,” to split the difference, sort of. So, which to choose?

Let’s get the obvious out of the way: the cases are the same…nearly. As they are all Professional models, they share the distinct, asymmetrical, if-you-didn’t-love-it-you-wouldn’t-be-reading-this 42mm case design. The only difference is that the White Dial (WD) and Black and White (B&W) models are only available with sapphire crystals and display case backs, while the Moonwatch is also available with a Hesalite (acrylic) crystal and a solid caseback. Similarly, the bracelets are nearly the same. They all feature the improved 2021 design, now with a micro-adjust clasp that adds only 2.5mm of room to play (not impressed). The difference here is that sapphire models have polished links on either side of the center links, while the Hesalite models are all brushed. Finally, all feature the 3861 caliber. No surprises.

What separates these models is all dial side, and while one could say that makes the differences aesthetic, there are some practical implications as well. First, let’s look at the dial surfaces and construction. The Moonwatch features a one-piece matte-black dial with printed indices and pad-printed lume. It’s high contrast, though lacks appliques and thus some depth. To make up for this, as of 2021, the dials feature a pronounced “step,” creating a clearer pie-pan shape, a beloved detail of earlier Speedmasters. Additionally, the sub-dials are deeply stamped in with wide bevels for a smooth transition between surfaces. All of the hands on the Moonwatch are matte white, maintaining high contrast. Lastly, the bezel insert is aluminum, keeping with classic Speedy aesthetics.