One trend in the microbrand/small independent category that I’m glad to see more of already in these early days of 2026 is brands doing more on their own, in-house. Those words, “in-house,” have developed an almost toxic reputation in some circles as they’ve been used liberally to imply a level of craft or development that is not really there when you strip away all the marketing talk. But a handful of brands are taking it back, using it to designate certain manufacturing processes that they’ve taken ownership of over overseas factories. Oak & Oscar has just announced a new watch, the Humboldt ExP-02 that reflects some of the ten year old brand’s new manufacturing capabilities in an exciting and unique way.
At a glance, you could be forgiven for thinking this is an ordinary version of the Humboldt, Oak & Oscar’s “classic adventure watch.” Subtly, however, it shows off real watchmaking skill and a willingness on the brand’s part to experiment with new techniques.
The centerpiece of the ExP-02 is the dial, which keeps the familiar sandwich style construction that Oak & Oscar is so well known for, but refines it and personalizes it for this piece. Every aspect of the dial manufacturing is done to a very high level in the Oak & Oscar workshop, using new watchmaking equipment that the brand has invested in specifically to create unique components for watches like the ExP-02.
According to Oak & Oscar, the rehaut and main dial plate are both cut from aluminum using precision machinery, and the chapter ring and dial plate are riveted and bonded together in-house. A matte finish is applied using “50-micron silicon carbide blasting media,” and the dial’s markings are made with very high frequency lasers to create what the brand calls a “ghost script” that is said to either shine on the dial or completely vanish, depending on the light. The end result is a dial that has a spare, minimal quality to it that is unmistakably “Oak & Oscar” but clearly made to a higher standard than other watches in their catalog.
The bezel is also created in-house, made from stainless steel on the same lathe as the rehaut. The brand claims that each bezel is bored to tolerances of just 0.01mm, which is 1/10th the thickness of a human hair, for a precision fit on each case.
This is an ambitious project for a brand like Oak & Oscar, which is still a very small operation even though they’ve been around for nearly as long as the microbrand scene itself. Watches like this, as well as watches with handpainted dials produced in very limited quantities and the pieces like the Humboldt Seven Year which featured hand finished dial elements, reveal a brand that cares a great deal of the craft of watchmaking and flexing what they’re capable of when possible. It’s worth pointing out that projects like the ExP-02 as well as the Humboldt Seven Year combine elements of traditional watchmaking craft with the use of new technologies (lots of lasers, in the case of the ExP-02), which a common thread we’ve noticed with other American independent and microbrands. That is to say, there is an element here of these brands rewriting the rule book of what watchmaking can be, and claiming it as their own. That’s exciting, and points to a bright future for American indies that are willing to experiment and incorporate non-traditional manufacturing disciplines into their watchmaking process.
In terms of specs, the Humboldt ExP-02 measures 39.5mm in diameter and 46.8mm from lug to lug. It runs on a Sellita SW300 automatic movement with 56 hours of power reserve, and is water resistant to a full 200 meters. The hour and minute hands feature hand-applied Super-LumiNova BGW9 lume. The watch is paired with a stainless steel bracelet with a micro-adjustable clasp.
Given the nature of the production, it’s no surprise that this is a limited production piece. Oak & Oscar says their initial production run will consist of just 20 watches, with 10 reserved for existing owners. The remaining 10 watches will be sold to the general public via a lottery system. Those interested can sign up for the lottery here.
The retail price for the Humboldt ExP-02 is $2,550.
Zach Kazan
2026-01-27 16:00:00