One of the very common knock-on effects of diving deep into any hobby or enthusiast pursuit is that eventually you’ll find yourself kind of obsessed with something that most would likely perceive as a waste of energy, or not actually all that interesting. I liken it to a cinephile finding a deep appreciation for the films of Michael Bay, constantly reminding everyone that Armageddon is in fact in the Criterion Collection (and has one of the best commentary tracks ever recorded – but that’s beside the point). Sometimes I feel like all of my watch interests are deeply niche. As my taste has evolved and, dare I say, matured, it’s also gotten a little bit weirder. But one niche of a niche that I know is underappreciated by many of my peers and perhaps even derided by some are the watches of the Ralph Lauren “Fine Watchmaking” division, specifically those in the American Western Watch Collection (but I have soft spot for the ones with the bears, too).
A new release from Ralph Lauren in this very collection bolsters my position, I think, that these watches are actually quite special. It’s important to start, though, with an understanding that while you’re likely to see “Polo” branded fashion watches anywhere Ralph Lauren apparel is sold, and certainly in the vitrines of big retailers at malls, and so forth, these are absolutely not what we could typically call fashion watches. The Western Watch Collection features movements made by Piaget, lots of handcraft, and exotic materials. They are “real” watches in every sense, and made to an extremely high level. Understanding that just because the name on the dial has come to represent, at least in certain quarters, a type of mass produced homogenization of style, that these watches exist apart from that altogether, is a key first step in appreciating them.
The watch we have here is very much driven by the ideas that have always inspired the Ralph Lauren design language, and is rooted deeply in Americana, particularly as it relates to the American west. The cushion cases are available in both sterling silver and gold, and this new release features a stunning turquoise dial. While some might roll their eyes at yet another stone dial, this release fits in nicely with Ralph Lauren’s specific interests. Turquoise is a traditional stone used in Native American jewelry coming out of the Southwest, and has been featured in Ralph Lauren collections going back to the 1980s.
The showstopper with these watches, though, is the case work. Each is hand engraved by a skilled artisan in a western style. All of the engraving work (on the cases and buckles) is completed in New York City. The leather straps also have an American made component as they are hand-tooled in Texas and then burnished in Italy. The movement, as mentioned, is an automatic caliber made for Ralph Lauren by Piaget. None of these components reflect fast fashion, mass production, or anything of the sort. The Ralph Lauren watches in this category are genuine luxury products with a distinct point of view.
Pricing in US dollars on the new turquoise dial watches seen here was not available at press time, but the standard versions of these watches without stone dials retail for $24,900 in sterling silver and $40,500 in gold, so that should give you a rough idea of what you’re looking at in terms of pricing. Production on the Western Watch Collection pieces is known to be very limited. Ralph Lauren
Zach Kazan
2025-11-12 18:00:00