When Longines reintroduced the Ultra-Chron back in 2022, many enthusiasts and vintage watch lovers were excited by the possibility of the brand exploring one of their key collections with a new lens. To the surprise of many, the watches that have been introduced in the new-look Ultra-Chron lineup have frequently been on the more contemporary side when it comes to design. For a brand that has become known for raiding the archives, the most revered Ultra-Chrons of old haven’t really been a factor with the new pieces. That changes, however, with the introduction of the new Ultra-Chron Classic, which, as the name suggests, is a riff on the original Ultra-Chron, the one often seen by collectors as the most desirable.
The Ultra-Chron has always existed as a testament to Longines’ commitment to chronometry. When the collection launched in 1967, it was the first time a watch with a movement based on those used in chronometry competitions had been successfully shifted to a mass produced product. The Ultra-Chron was one of several watches released in the 1960s that effectively threw down the gauntlet in the ongoing chronometry wars among many of the biggest Swiss brands (plus Seiko/Grand Seiko). So it makes sense that Longines would return to the original design of one their most historically important watches.
The Ultra-Chron Classic is about as sturdy an example of a clean, midcentury watch design as you’re likely to see. Its circular stainless steel case comes in two sizes: 37mm and 40mm. It was smart of Longines to offer a choice. The original version from 1967 came in at 35mm, which was a fairly standard size for a watch of this type in those days. The 37mm should feel an awful lot like a vintage watch, while the 40mm offers a solid option for those looking for a bit more wrist presence. The silver dial has a crosshair motif dividing it into quadrants, and the classic Ultra-Chron logo appears near the 6:00 position.
Of course, it would not be a proper Ultra-Chron without a solid high frequency inside keeping the time. The new Ultra-Chron Classic runs on the Longines exclusive L836.6 caliber running at 5 Hz, the same rate as the original Ultra-Chron from the 1960s. This movement, naturally, has plenty of modern features, including a silicon balance spring that keeps it magnetic resistant in accordance with the ISO 764 standard, and the entire assembled timepiece goes through a 15 day testing period to ensure it can stand up to temperature variations and position changes. The watch is a certified chronometer through the Observatoire Chronométrique de Genève.
The Ultra-Chron Classic is available on either a leather strap for $3,900 or a stainless steel bracelet for $4,000. The small increase in price makes the bracelet an obvious choice in my opinion, and like the watch itself it has a great vintage look to it. While previous versions of the Ultra-Chron have been interesting, if a little headscratching at times, this one just makes a ton of sense, and feels like the one fans of the brand and these watches have been waiting for. Longines
Zach Kazan
2025-10-22 20:00:00