- Patting the noodles dry after boiling removes the excess surface moisture, allowing them to crisp and brown as they’re stir-fried.
- A combination of oyster sauce, fish sauce, soy sauce, and Maggi seasoning gives the noodles a sweet, salty, and deeply savory flavor.
- Spreading the noodles in an even layer across the wok’s large surface helps them crisp and caramelize quickly, making for a fast and flavorful dish.
Chef Melissa King created these umami-packed, 30-minute noodles as a nod to garlicky Vietnamese noodles and Cantonese-style see yow wong chow mein. King’s version in Cook Like a King features chewy and lightly crisped noodles that are tossed in an ultra-savory combination of soy sauce, oyster sauce, and Maggi seasoning. The thin Chinese egg noodles readily absorb the sauce while simultaneously crisping and browning in spots as they’re stir-fried. Lean on fresh noodles, which tend to crisp and retain their chewiness when stir-fried better than dried noodles — if you can’t find thin Chinese egg noodles, thicker Shanghai noodles or even Japanese ramen will also be delicious.
The key to making this dish is to thoroughly preheat the wok or large skillet over high heat before you begin cooking. Once you add the oil, let it start to smoke slightly before adding the aromatics. The onion should sizzle and hiss as soon as it hits the pan. The high heat allows the onion to brown around the edges and soften but still retain a bit of crunch. The same principle applies when adding the noodles to the pan. If the heat is too low, the noodles will steam and overcook rather than crisping and caramelizing in spots.
These savory noodles pair well with seafood dishes like Steamed Dungeness Crab, Szechuan Chile-Butter Shrimp, or Honey-Walnut Shrimp. If you’re looking to pair the noodles with a vegetable, try Yu Choy with Garlic Sauce or Roasted Asparagus with Savory Butter Sauce. The noodles are also great served on their own as a late-night snack or quick dinner.
What is Maggi seasoning?
Maggi seasoning, made from fermented wheat protein, is a thin, dark, concentrated liquid that is loaded with umami. Its flavor is comparable to a less salty, more complex soy sauce. Maggi seasoning was originally created by Julius Maggi in Switzerland in the late 1800s. Since then, the seasoning has become a global pantry staple, popular in countries throughout Latin America, Asia, and Europe.
It’s a common flavor enhancer used in stir-fried vegetables or noodles dishes, marinades, soups and stews, and rice dishes. A little bit goes a long way, so use the concentrated liquid sparingly.
Tips for perfectly chewy-crisp noodles
It’s important to use fresh, not dried, noodles. The Food & Wine Test Kitchen executed a side-by-side comparison of fresh versus dried noodles in this dish and found that the fresh ones had a chewier, bouncier texture and crisped more easily. However, if you can’t find fresh thin Chinese egg noodles, frozen noodles are the next best option.
Don’t skip the step of patting the noodles dry after boiling. Removing the excess moisture on the surface of the noodles allows them to crisp, rather than steam, once they’re added to the wok. When stir-frying the noodles, don’t stir constantly — spread the noodles in an even layer, and let them sizzle undisturbed a while before tossing.
Notes from the Food & Wine Test Kitchen
- Dark soy sauce may be substituted with one tablespoon of light soy sauce plus one teaspoon of molasses.
- It’s important to have all of your ingredients prepped (mise en place) before you start cooking because, like most stir fries, it comes together quickly once you start.
- For extra spice, use Szechuan Chile-Bourbon Butter in place of unsalted butter.
Suggested pairing
Pair these crisp, savory noodles with an earthy, citrusy sparkling wine, such as Naveran Brut Nature Cava.
This recipe was developed by Melissa King; the text was written by Paige Grandjean.
Melissa King
2025-10-14 19:26:00