When the topic of Cartier comes up, usually it’s in the context of a discussion of their beautiful, design oriented dress watches. We all know what we’re talking about here: shaped cases, precious metals, exotic gem set jewelry pieces. This is Cartier’s stock-in-trade, and watch for watch there’s probably no brand on the planet better at making those kinds of watches. But if you look through Cartier’s history, there are plenty of oddball creations that don’t fit neatly into the dress watch narrative. True sports watches are rare (RIP, Calibre de Cartier divers) but there are many notable releases from recent years that run right up to the edge of a sportier category. The Drive de Cartier (also discontinued) was an explicit attempt to make a “men’s” watch that was quite elegant but also larger and could easily read as more casual. The Cartier Roadster collection is another example of a line that viewed sporty/casual styles through a uniquely Cartier lens. And, of course, the Santos has existed for many years in oversized and complicated variants (not to mention black coated examples) that fit nicely into this niche.
And last week, Cartier announced yet another new Santos that might, in its way, be among Cartier’s sportiest watches ever, thanks to the material used as well as the finish chosen. The new Santos de Cartier in titanium features a bead blasted titanium case and bracelet, and comes in the larger Santos case size, measuring 39.8mm × 9.3mm. According to the brand, the new titanium version of the Santos is 43% lighter than its steel counterpart, which should dramatically impact the wearing experience.
Even more than the material change, which is dramatic enough, the thing that really intrigues me about the new titanium Santos is the bead blasted finish. Part of the appeal of the Santos (if you love it) or the thing that keeps you away is the intricate mix of brushed and highly polished finishing throughout the case, particularly that notoriously easy to scratch polished bezel. The finishing is what makes the Santos, even in its large size, an incredibly versatile and easy to wear watch. It can, of course, be easily dressed up and worn as an elegant dress watch, but the bracelet, visible screws, and sporty squared off shape make it incredibly appealing as a casual watch as well. The muted gray tones of the titanium along with a case that is almost entirely bead blasted really shifts how one should think about the Santos. This variant, to me, feels like its in direct communication with the original design brief of the Santos, which of course was a watch to be worn on the wrist by the pilot of a plane, a watchmaking first at the time. To put it another way, no other modern Santos really feels like a pilot’s watch unless you know the story behind it, but this one does in a very contemporary way.
In addition to the new Santos de Cartier in titanium, Cartier has also introduced a new steel variant, which introduces luminescent material on the dial for the first time in the collection. The dial here is black with sunray finishing on the outer section and satin brushing in the interior, with the traditional Roman numerals along the perimeter. The numerals and hands glow green in the dark, and while it doesn’t appear to be an elaborate or fancy lume treatment, it’s notable for Cartier and for the Santos collection, and paired with the titanium variant it feels like a concerted effort to bring the Santos to prospective Cartier customers who prefer watches with a more modern feel and aesthetic. The steel version is the same large size Santos as the new titanium release, which in my mind is too big for the Santos, but again might be just what clients for these new pieces are looking for.
The retail price for the new titanium Santos is $11,500, and it will be available beginning in November. The new steel model with lume is available now and priced at $8,650. Cartier
Zach Kazan
2025-10-13 17:29:00