What Worm Salt Really Is and Why It Belongs With Mezcal

Born of wild agave and the creatures that sustain it, sal de gusano is a traditional Mexican ingredient closely tied to mezcal production. Better known as “worm salt” in the United States, to refer to sal de gusano by its literal English translation does it a grave disservice. 

That’s not just because worm salt seems unflattering, but the “worms” are actually larvae of moths that help pollinate the agave used to make mezcal.

A dusting of sal de gusano, either alongside a sip of mezcal or on the rim of a cocktail glass, can act as both a flavor enhancer and storyteller. It can offer a deeper appreciation for agave-based drinks and spirits, as well as the traditions of Mexican agriculture and drinking culture.

What is sal de gusano?

With its origins in the Mexican state of Oaxaca, sal de gusano is a blended seasoning used to accompany a pour of mezcal and, more recently, as a rim garnish for tequila, mezcal, and agave-based cocktails. It contains three key ingredients: Cleaned, toasted moth larvae, dried chiles, and salt, ground together traditionally on a stone tool known as a metate. 

The protein-rich larvae bring a toasted, earthy flavor. The chiles impart bright, spicy notes. And the salt acts as a binding agent. A well-made sal de gusano delivers symmetry that’s achieved through meticulous care.

“Sal de gusano is the result of balance, and preparation plays the most decisive role in bringing all the ingredients together harmoniously,” says Edith Moreno Sanchez, a botanist and chef at Restaurant Agave 1621 in El Oro de Hidalgo, located in the state of Mexico. “The grinding on the metate is not just a mechanical act, but an art that requires patience, rhythm, and respect for tradition.”

The purpose of sal de gusano

A proper sal de gusano offers nuanced smoky umami notes that play off an agave spirit’s vegetal, herbaceous characteristics. In a cocktail, sal de gusano can also help rein in sweeter elements. Its usage is much more than just an afterthought.

“The key to using sal de gusano in a cocktail is integrating it into the context of a cocktail,” says Max Reis, beverage director of the award-winning restaurant Mírate, and its sister bar, Daisy, in Los Angeles. “It shouldn’t be used to ‘chase’ a cocktail’s flavors.”

Sal de gusano’s savory, smoky flavors also make it an effective culinary ingredient. 

“It can be like a classic table salt,” says Andrés Cruz, director of Mexican sales and hospitality for Mezcal Vago. “Some well-toasted worms and a tiny bit of arbol chiles can give any dish a nice touch of salinity and spice.”

Beyond the beverage

To Mexicans, sal de gusano is more than just a seasoning. It’s symbolic of a greater connection between the land, plant, and Oaxacan tradition. 

“When the elements of sal de gusano are properly integrated, it becomes a cultural expression of Oaxaca,” says Sanchez.

This synergy starts at the base of the agave plants. The larvae used in sal de gusano, most commonly a moth larvae known colloquially as red maguey worms, live there and feed off their roots. This symbiotic relationship played a key role in how sal de gusano was produced for generations.

“Back in the day, when you’d farm agave, you’d just grab a handful of worms after you were done doing chores in the field,” says Cruz. “The worms were never harvested. They were just there. Collecting them used to just be an everyday occurrence.”

The process has become a bit more sophisticated. The sal de gusano that’s available in the U.S. comes from hand-harvested worms, gathered typically during Oaxaca’s rainy season. Regardless of the process, the earthy flavor that the worms provide ensures their connection to the agave remains intact far after both have been harvested. 

“For us, sal de gusano represents an unexpected gift of the agave ecosystem,” says Sanchez. “It shows us how much life and nourishment this plant can generate beyond just mezcal.”

Educating the public

As interest in agave spirits skyrockets, “worm salt” may not seem quite as off-putting as it once did. 

“I find most people are receptive to trying it,” says Reis. “We always tell our customers what it is. We’re not going to put it on a glass and say, ‘Surprise! Bugs!’ Sometimes, that leads us to do some ‘tour-guiding’ with guests, so to speak. But most people will just go for it, though. I think it’s because people feel it’s more exotic, and they want to taste something new. They also find it to be part of a fun, memorable experience.”

The desire for a great experience may be what makes understanding sal de gusano so worthwhile. It enables a greater appreciation of Mexican drinking culture, which is much more than just drinking alcohol. It connects people through the rituals of food and drink. 

Sure, sal de gusano may come in part from an ugly bug. Its presence, however, can create something quite beautiful.