【F】 Thin Is In! — The Return Of Slim Watches

From the record-breaking thinnest-ever tourbillon in the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon to the genre-defying Christopher Ward Twelve 660, thin is in! It seems manufacturers are heeding our outcries for slim watches across (almost) all categories and segments. This is a trend we can get behind at Fratello!

It seems like only yesterday when almost every watch review featured a variant of the following statement: “It is almost great, but I wish it were smaller and thinner.” The shrinking of diameters has been ongoing for some time now. However, we’ve been noticing watch thicknesses coming down recently as well, so we felt it was about time to unpack the subject.

Manufacturers are focusing on slim watches again

With the rise in popularity of big watches starting around the turn of the millennium, watches naturally got thicker. Enthusiasts yearned for substantial, sporty, and solid-feeling watches. A nice, chunky case added to a luxury watch’s perceived ruggedness and weighty feel.

Trends come and go, and the era of the big watch ended some 20 years later. Enthusiasts started to cry out for vintage-inspired proportions again, and 38mm became the new 42mm. Most manufacturers were slow to respond. For starters, it takes time for the bulk of casual buyers to adopt the aficionados’ preferences. Equally important, though, is the technical development needed to reduce diameters and thicknesses. If a brand developed a fleet of large calibers when big watches were hot, it cannot simply downsize its cases now.

But smaller watches seem to be here to stay. We have argued before that watch sizes have almost become a nonissue over the past couple of years. Whereas, a few years ago, every release would be accompanied by heated debates on whether it was too large or too small, today, it seems there are simply plenty of options to suit all preferences. We don’t see the size debate nearly as often in our comments section anymore. However, we do see manufacturers focusing on slim watches again.

Slim is in

Recently, we have seen an uptick in slim watches. This isn’t limited to record-breaking ultra-thin releases; it seems slimness itself has simply become a priority again. As a little disclaimer, I am developing a record-chasing slim dive watch as we speak. I must admit that I am not completely neutral and have some skin in the game, then.

I am not alone, though. Doxa released a new iteration of its Sub 750T, shaving off well over 2mm. The original measured 14mm thick, while the latest version comes in at 11.95mm without sacrificing water resistance. We also know of another hardcore dive watch coming out with a slimmed-down case soon (sorry; it’s still under embargo!). These are sports watches, showing that thinness isn’t reserved for formal watches anymore.

There are several good reasons to pursue thinness in watches. You may like slim watches aesthetically, although that is subjective. It is hard to argue, though, that thinner watches aren’t more ergonomic and simply more comfortable on the wrist. I also see horological beauty in the pursuit of slimness. Slimming watches down poses technical challenges just like developing complications and creating unique new designs do.

What it takes to build slim watches

So, what makes a slim watch? Part of it comes down to the thickness of the caliber, which is why some brands currently struggle to reduce thickness. If, however, you accept the caliber’s thickness as a given, you have two remaining variables — materials and margins.

Starting with materials, you can simply make the case back, dial, and crystal thinner. This has its limits, especially when pursuing a desired water resistance rating. In the case of my dive watch, for instance, we need 1.5mm of steel on the case back and 1.8mm of sapphire to guarantee water resistance to 200 meters.

Then, you have your margins, the space between the case back and caliber, caliber and dial, dial and hands, markers and hands, the hands between each other, and the hands and crystal. That space is there for a reason, and things quickly become challenging when you minimize it. Did you know, for instance, that the tolerances in most calibers cause their central pinion to wobble ever so slightly? If the hands are too close to each other or the applied indexes, this wobble can cause them to catch. We’re not even talking about the effects of external shocks yet. That’s why it is so much easier to put a lot of space between every part. And that’s why you see these massive rehauts and super tall handstacks.

Slim watches aren’t conquering all categories (yet)

If you find yourself looking for slim watches in the chronograph category, you may be headed for disappointment. They exist; my recent encounter with the Angelus Chronographe Télémètre springs to mind. However, the vast majority of mechanical chronographs have bulky cases — or, I should say, bulky calibers.

A majority share of modern chronograph movements can trace their roots to the Valjoux 7750. This workhorse among workhorses measures 7.9mm thick. By comparison, the most common time-only base calibers, the ETA 2824 and ETA 2892, come in at 4.6mm and 3.6mm, respectively. So, if you have a time-only watch at 11mm and wish to make a chronograph version, it may increase to 14.3mm. I am oversimplifying this due to possible differences in height distribution between calibers, but you get my point.

At the moment, we don’t see slimmer chronograph calibers in the lower segments by the large ébauche manufacturers yet. La Joux-Perret has one, but it is quite costly, as showcased by the aforementioned Angelus. This means that, to find a slender chronograph, you have to resort to higher-end stuff.

Closing thoughts on slim watches

All in all, we are delighted to see slim watches make a comeback at Fratello. As Lex once prosaically put it (referring to integrated-bracelet sports watches), if it is over €10k, it should be under 10mm. Whether it is for the aesthetic beauty, the ergonomics, or the technical watchmaking challenges, thinness is a USP worth pursuing.

Let this also be a plea to Sellita, La Joux-Perret, Soprod, and Miyota: please develop a slim chronograph caliber! I, for one, would be delighted to develop a watch around it!

What do you think of slim watches? Do you like your timetellers slender or with some “junk in the trunk”? Let us know in the comments section below!