【F】 Doxa Sub 750T Vs. Oris Aquis New York Harbor LE II

Good morning, and welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown! Last week’s installment was all about sleek integrated-bracelet sports watches. This week, we’ll focus on two substantial divers that came out recently. For Geneva Watch Days, Doxa relaunched its Sub 750T with the same 45mm diameter but a slimmer 11.95mm profile. We thought putting that colorful collection up against the new Oris Aquis New York Harbor Limited Edition II with its aqua-blue mother-of-pearl dial and strap would be a good idea.

Sometimes, it seems like watches are only getting smaller. However, releases like the new Doxa Sub 750T and the second Oris New York Harbor Limited Edition demonstrate that brands certainly believe there’s still a market for larger watches. Thomas already went hands-on with the Oris, while Daan saw the Doxa models at Geneva Watch Days last week. You can read their arguments for their choices below. Get ready to vote for your champion in another Sunday Morning Showdown! But first, let’s see what happened during last week’s battle.

Last week, on Sunday Morning Showdown…

A week ago, the brand-new Christopher Ward Twelve 660 took on the Nivada Grenchen F77. Both feature a ’70s-inspired integrated-bracelet design and are roughly within the same sub-€2,000 price range. However, your comments and votes showed that these watches aren’t actually that similar. The new Twelve 660 has a hand-wound movement, a mere 6.6mm thickness, and a 30m water resistance rating. For some, that means it is more like a sporty dress watch than a proper sports watch. The F77, on the other hand, is almost twice as thick, features an automatic movement, and is water resistant to 100 meters. That does make it a more worry-free everyday piece to wear. In the end, though, the Christopher Ward Twelve 660 won 61% of the votes due to the excellent quality it offers for the price. All right, let’s see what will happen this week.

Daan: Doxa Sub 750T

At different points in my watch-collecting journey, I thought about buying both a Doxa Sub and an Oris Aquis. A few years ago, I was able to try the Doxa Sub 300 Searambler and found it very attractive. The combination of the shield-like C-shaped case, its double-scale bezel, and the relatively small dial with blocky, pointed hands struck a chord with me. Sure, it’s a bit awkward at first, but it grew on me, and if it hadn’t been for my Seiko SPB317, I would’ve bought the Doxa. Recently, I traded that Seiko re-edition for the original 6105-8000. While I’m very happy with that watch, the Doxa Sub is still a favorite of mine.

My feelings toward the Oris Aquis are a bit different. Before I added a Tudor Black Bay 58 Blue to my collection, I decided to explore some other dive watches that I hadn’t tried. One of them was the Oris Aquis, either in the 39.5 or 41.5mm sizes. I tried green, blue, and black variants, but for some reason, I couldn’t quite connect with the watch. Maybe it’s due to the muscular, more modern design. Also, although it wears quite well due to its shorter lugs, it does feel quite chunky on the wrist. Anyway, it was a big “no” for me, and ever since, I have kept the Oris Aquis off my list of possible future acquisitions.

The Doxa is the true charmer

I must say, both New York Harbor editions of the Aquis look better than the collection’s regular models. Oris replaced the shiny ceramic bezel insert with a stainless steel one that I greatly prefer. And while I usually wouldn’t opt for mother-of-pearl, the pastel-green and aqua-blue dials on the New York Harbor editions look great, especially with the matching rubber straps. The colorful dials add some real charm to the usually quite cold and distant Aquis. However, in my eyes, it still can’t compete with the Doxa’s vintage-inspired charm.

Of course, the Doxa’s design isn’t new in any way, but even after 50+ years, it still works so well, even in all the different sizes the brand has introduced through the decades. I’ve already touched on the Doxa Sub’s peculiar shield-like case, the no-deco bezel, and the relatively small dial. It simply makes the watch wear unlike any other watch out there. In addition, the color configurations, which also aren’t new, still work their magic. My favorite is the Searambler because, on that version, the orange accents pop so well.

A slimmer Sub 750T

Last week, Doxa introduced a slimmer version of its Sub 750T. It still has a 45mm diameter and a 47mm lug-to-lug length, so this wouldn’t typically be a watch that I’d wear on my 17cm wrist. However, the new 11.95mm profile shaves nearly two whole millimeters off the previous version. I tried it on during Geneva Watch Days, and to my surprise, it fits all right on my average-sized wrist. I’d still go for a smaller size if I were ever to buy one, but it goes to show how a big watch on paper can actually be quite wearable.

The previous version’s case back protruded much more, which made the watch “float” on the wrist. The new one sits flush, so there’s almost no space between the shield-like case and the wrist. Also, when you hold the old and the new versions side by side, you can feel that the latter is significantly lighter.

The Oris Aquis, on the other hand, due to its barrel-like case shape, feels like a lot on the wrist. Its 13.1mm thickness isn’t ridiculous for a dive watch, but its design makes it stand too proudly on the wrist for me. Plus, it’s a more top-heavy piece.

I simply prefer the Doxa’s wearing experience and overall design. But please, Thomas, let us know why you feel differently.

Thomas: Oris Aquis New York Harbor Limited Edition II

Thank you, Daan! I think this is an interesting matchup. For starters, since we both lean toward smaller watches, perhaps we don’t give larger options the attention they deserve. The fact that we get to do that today is a breath of fresh air. If you are a fan of large watches, I am sure a battle like this feels long overdue.

Second, these watches compete in the same segment. The Doxa Sub 750T will set you back €2,690 on the bracelet or €2,650 on the rubber strap. The Oris New York Harbor II comes in at €2,550. I can immediately score my first point here because not only is the Oris more affordable, but it also includes both the bracelet and the rubber strap at that price.

To me, Oris and Doxa rule this segment. You would have to jump up quite significantly in price to get something notably better than these two. If you were shopping for a fun, big, colorful diver, Doxa used to be your primary candidate. With the release of the New York Harbor special edition, though, Oris makes that choice much, much tougher.

So, why the Oris Aquis New York Harbor Limited Edition II?

In the end, picking between two watches usually comes down to a gut feeling. Which watch excites you more? Which speaks to you on a different level? However, I do think the Oris beats the Doxa on a few more objective criteria.

For starters, I think it provides better value. Specs-wise, except for the Doxa’s crazy depth rating, these watches are nearly identical. Build-wise, I feel the Oris wins by a slim margin. The bracelet, in particular, is more solid and refined. Doxa’s beads-of-rice bracelet is perhaps iconic in design, but it is fairly spartan in execution. Also, with the Doxa, you have to add €500 for the bracelet or €460 for the rubber strap to get the same configuration that comes standard with the Oris. Really, then, you would have to say the Doxa costs €3,150 versus the Oris’s €2,550 for the same set.

Then, while the Oris is cheaper and, in my eyes at least, better, you still support the Billion Oyster Project with your purchase. This NGO aims to improve underwater habitats in the New York Harbor by repopulating it with oysters. All in all, that means less money spent, better value obtained, and a good cause supported. What’s not to love there?

A matter of color

So, I have argued that the Oris Aquis New York Harbor has (marginally) better construction and offers better value. Then, we have the matter of style. After all, if you are looking for a big and colorful diver, you want to make a statement.

Here, Doxa shines. We have to make one clear distinction, though. The Doxa Sub 750T may be brighter and more fun, with a range of cool options, but the Oris Aquis New York Harbor Limited Edition II is prettier. Sure, you only get this one blueish-green option, but Oris absolutely nailed the color. It is simultaneously punchy and beautiful, flashy and stylish. You can see that Oris put a lot of consideration into the exact shade picked for this watch.

Add to this the subtle sheen of the mother-of-pearl dial, and I think we have a clear winner. The dial does not look jewelry-esque, as most MOP dials do. Instead, the texture simply adds depth and dynamism to an already captivating color. I think Oris did a truly fantastic job on this dial.

Cast your vote!

There you have it — two big, bold, colorful new dive watches for your consideration. Which would be your pick? Would you take the Doxa Sub 750T, or would you rather rock the Oris Aquis New York Harbor Limited Edition II? Cast your vote, and share your motivations in the comments section below!